Aloe Vera to Combined Approach
Aloe Vera
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
The best source of aloe vera is a freshly cut leaf from an organically grown aloe vera plant. The juice can be extracted by simply squeezing it out of the tip of the leaf. Alternately, a whole leaf may be placed into a food processor and then the juice can be pressed out of the pulp created by the food processor.
The active properties of aloe include barbaloin and isobarbaloin. Aloe has purgative, cholagogue, anti-inflammatory, vulnerary, and anthelmintic effects. Aloe powder is a strong purgative and can be effective with constipation. Scientific studies have shown that aloe is highly effective when applied topically to burns, especially in the early stages following the burn. As a vulnerary, it speeds wound healing and cell growth.
Aloe is said to have tonic effects similar to the Chinese herbal product Rehmannia 6 (a Kidney Yin tonic).
Recently, some companies have begun marketing aloe as an immune enhancing herb. Some of these companies claim to have developed cold processing (and other secret or proprietary) techniques that extract individual components from the aloe vera juice. Two of these products are called Acemannon and Manopol. In some conditions, these products can be very helpful. Normally, we recommend that the juice of the plant be used.
The main uses for aloe include:
- Wound management
- Burns
- Constipation
- Treating bowel disorders where there is inflammation
- Immune boosting
- Anti-inflammation
Arthritis: Degenerative Joint Disease
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
Arthritis is a term we all commonly use, but one we often don't really understand. Some people think that it means lameness. Others might think that their animal must be in obvious pain to have arthritis. Many people have rheumatoid arthritis or know someone who does, and many of us think that arthritis means the same thing as rheumatoid arthritis. None of these are necessarily true.
Arthritis is an extremely broad term, including many different disorders. "Arthro" means Joint and "itis" means Inflammation; so arthritis simply means joint inflammation. This includes joints of the legs and the back.
There are a number of causes of arthritis:
- Trauma (sprains)
- Autoimmune disease
- Rheumatoid arthritis does occur in animals; however, one of the most common reasons to have autoimmune-caused arthritis is an adverse reaction to a drug or to vaccinations
- Dysplasia:
- Often involves the hips, and is thus called hip dysplasia
- Means that a joint has not formed correctly while the animal was growing up
- Therefore the joint doesn't fit together properly and will deteriorate and wear down rapidly
- Can occur in almost any joint, including elbows and shoulders
- The end result of a dysplastic or poorly constructed joint is cartilage erosion, bone spurs, joint mice, and ligament damage. The affected joint will be painful and stiff; the animal will develop limping or exhibit difficulty rising.
- Ruptured Ligaments or Tendons:
- The knee is the most common joint to suffer from this problem and the most common type of injury occurs when the Anterior Cruciate Ligament is ruptured
- A torn Anterior Cruciate Ligament is commonly referred to as an ACL injury
- Lack of Motion:
- All joints need regular exercise to work correctly. As your animal ages, exercise often decreases; a secondary problem to this sedentary life is that the joints start to become stiffer. This is one reason we all should exercise routinely throughout life.
Degenerative Joint Disease is also a fairly broad term. It simply means that, due to a variety of reasons, the joint becomes unstable, wearing out faster than normal, and begins to develop secondary structural problems. These problems include abnormal joint fluid, cartilage erosion or even total loss of cartilage, meniscal tears (when involving the knees), bone spurs, joint mice, and ligament and tendon damage.
Signs of Arthritis
- Limping
- Stiffness, especially in the morning
- Decreased exercise tolerance
- Doesn't want to climb stairs or jump up as much
- Pain
- Difficulty rising or sitting or laying down
- Trouble sleeping through the night
- As the joint becomes stiffer through the night, it also becomes more painful so the dog, cat or bird will not sleep as well
What Can Be Done
Diagnosis
A veterinarian should examine all animals with lameness, weakness or any other signs that might mean arthritis. The veterinarian will give a physical exam, evaluate the animal's gait, and perform a neurological examination. After the examination, your veterinarian might recommend radiographs to help with the diagnosis, evaluate if surgery is indicated, and help you understand the potential for future problems.
Surgery
Most arthritic conditions do not respond well to surgery. Some acute problems, such as a ruptured ACL, will respond well to surgery, as do some dysplastic joint conditions. However, even the most successful surgery will eventually lead to a worsening of the arthritis. To slow this progression, keep the joint as healthy as possible for as long as possible, and to relieve discomfort we always recommend complementary therapies.
Pharmaceuticals
Conventional-minded veterinarians will typically recommend a drug called a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory agent ("NSAIDs"). Trade names include Etogesic and Rimadyl. One well-known example in people is Advil (Advil is not safe for animals). All NSAIDs have in common the following characteristics:
- Strong anti-inflammation properties
- Moderate pain relieving properties
- A tendency to accelerate the rate of deterioration of the joint
- May cause liver and/or kidney disease
- May cause stomach or intestinal ulcersWellVet.com believes that NSAIDs are needed in some conditions, but should be reserved for the more serious conditions due to their cost and potential for adverse side effects.
Aspirin is commonly used in dogs (do not give aspirin to cats without veterinary approval as it can cause toxicity and even death). Aspirin can be given to dogs and birds. It is safe, inexpensive and very effective. The one concern with aspirin is that it can cause stomach and intestinal ulcers. It helps to give aspirin with a meal. Talk to your veterinarian about the amount of aspirin to give your animal.
Acupuncture
Acupuncture is remarkably effective for the treatment of arthritis. It can be called the "gold standard" of therapy because it is so effective. To find a certified veterinary acupuncturist, look at the web sites for the International Veterinary Acupuncture Society or the American Academy of Veterinary Acupuncture.
Joint Support Formulas
There are a number of herbs, nutraceuticals, minerals and vitamins that can reduce the pain of arthritis, help restore normal joint fluid (the lubricant of the joint), rebuild damaged cartilage, and improve joint mobility. It is likely that an effective combination of these supplements will slow the progression of arthritis, may reverse the damage arthritis has already done to the joint, and may help decrease the inflammation and immune damage that autoimmune joint diseases such as rheumatoid arthritis cause.
WellVet.com has analyzed a number of these products carefully and clinically tested several for effectiveness. We believe that the best formula currently available is our Custom MegaFlex.
Bad Breath (Halitosis)
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
Bad breath becomes more common as dogs and cats age. It is caused by a number of factors, including:
- Periodontal disease (bad teeth)
- Gingivitis (especially in cats)
- Poor digestion
- Stomach problems
- Chronic small intestinal problems
- Poor diet
A veterinarian should examine all animals with halitosis. Teeth should be cleaned if needed. The diet should be modified to improve the quality of the food (see the articles on Feeding Your Dog and Feeding Your Cat ).
Most dogs and cats with halitosis have poor digestion, abnormal bacterial populations in the stomach and small intestines, and often have slow passage of food out of the stomach.
Severe disease involving kidneys, adrenal glands, liver or other organs can cause foul mouth odors. Blood tests would be needed to determine if this is the problem. Animals that eat feces (coprophagia) will have bad breath. Animals that are in the habit of scavenging for garbage and foul tasting plants may develop bad breath, and those that eat indigestible items (sticks, plastic, rubber, etc.) can have bad breath.
Some dogs and cats with bad breath might need radiographs and perhaps endoscopic examination (scoping the stomach) to help determine the problem.
However, most dogs and cats with bad breath do not improve with dentals and don't have systemic diseases. The mouth odor is coming from the stomach and esophagus. Food is not being adequately digested, moving too slowly through the digestive tract, and abnormal bacteria are growing because of this "slugging" of food.
Many animals are given products that mask the odor. We believe that this only hides the symptoms of maldigestion and dysbiosis (abnormal bacteria populations). We recommend that you try to improve digestion, detoxification, and nutrition as primary ways to improve mouth odor.
If the bad breath persists after the veterinary exam and treatment, consider doing the following:
- Change the diet to a more healthy one
- Supplement the diet with:
- Dipan 9 or Similase - digestive enzymes are often very helpful
- Douglas Laboratories Multi-Probiotic 40 Billion - beneficial bacteria improve normal bacterial populations
- Garlic - aids in digestion and has a healing, beneficial effect to the stomach lining
- Aloe vera - heals the mucosal lining of the stomach; click here to read about Aloe Vera
- Myrrh
- Chinese herbal medicine - often Chinese herbs can heal the abnormal digestive system. Each animal must be individually analyzed for the correct formula. Call for a Phone Consult.
Canine Liver Disease
GENERAL INFO
Liver disease is a serious problem in dogs. Perhaps the most important treatment for dogs with liver disease is a home prepared diet.
Not all patients have the same type of liver disease and severity of liver malfunction; diets should therefore be specifically tailored to your dog's degree of liver disfunction.
Most patients need a diet low in copper and sodium. Antioxidants should be available in a plentiful amount!
The guidelines for a liver diet include:
- The liver has a diminished ability to detoxify. Thus, we need to feed adequate, reasonably high levels of easily digested proteins, free of aflatoxins, hormones, herbicides and pesticides.
- Limit further damage by limiting copper and, again, pesticides and other toxins.
- Support liver regeneration by supplying high levels of antioxidants and free radical scavengers.
- Dogs with liver disease are usually suffering from a condition where less protein is being broken down (catabolic) resulting in increased energy needs and therefore the need for more protein.
- Prevent the build-up of blood borne brain toxins, called hepatic encephalopathy.
- Dogs with liver disease can usually handle very high amounts of fat in the diet (30 - 50% of calories).
- Moderate amounts of soluble and insoluble dietary fiber can help a dog with liver disease. Soluble fiber such as beet pulp and gums lowers the production and absorption of ammonia and helps the growth of beneficial bacteria.
HOME COOKED
There are two ways to mix up a home cooking recipe. You can simply eyeball the percent estimates we provide, or you can weigh the ingredients until you get good at mixing the recipe using the eyeball estimate.
Liver Diet using estimates:
- Ground beef (20% fat) lightly cooked-45%
- Carbohydrate source: Rice, Quinoa-35%
- Veggies (carrots are great)-20%
- Coconut oil- 1 tsp per meal for each 15 lbs. body weight
- Thorne Canine Sport Vitamin-1/4 per meal for each 15 lbs. body weight
- Sea Salt (for trace minerals)-salt to taste
- Some dogs will not have a good appetite when sick, so you can season the diet to improve taste, for example, you can add some garlic for taste
- A fiber source, such as Thorne's Medibulk-1/2 tsp for each 15 lbs. body weight
Cook the meat and carbohydrate source then mix them together with the meat being slightly more by volume than the rice/quinoa. Then add the cooked carrots (alternately you can buy frozen carrots and peas). Make up a large amount of this and you can then freeze into smaller containers. You will feed approximately the same amount as you were feeding before you started the diet (if you were fed a cup twice daily, continue to do this). Then, at each meal, mix in the remaining ingredients.
Liver Disease Diet using weighed amounts:
This recipe uses 2 pounds of ingredients, already cooked and prepared for mixing. You can double, triple, etc., the amount you are making by simply doubling or tripling the amount you cook up. Remaining portions should be frozen if not used within three days.
- Chicken breast, with skin-1/2 pound (250 grams)
- Cooked White Rice-2/3 of a pound (650 grams)
- Cooked Carrots-50 grams
- Coconut Oil-50 grams
- Fiber Source (eg. Thorne's Medibulk)-1 tsp/50 grams
- Antioxidant supplement (eg. Metagenic's Oxygenics)-1/4 tablet for each 20 lbs. body weight
Feed the same amount, by volume, that you would any other diet.
KIBBLE
Liver Diet including some dry dog food (kibble)
Take either of the cooked diets and mix 50/50 with a commercial diet designed for feeding to Liver Disease patients (one of these diets is called Prescription Diet l/d).
The more fresh foods or home cooked foods you feed, the better the chance your dog will have to heal from her liver disease, so always feed at least 50% of the diet as the above home cooked recipes.
Chronic Diarrhea in Cats
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
Chronic diarrhea in cats is often associated with a disease called Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD). Other causes include food allergies, chronic bacterial infections, and certain systemic diseases (liver, kidney, and heart diseases, for example).
Because of the serious nature of many cases of diarrhea in cats, all cases of chronicdiarrhea should be examined by a local veterinarian.
Many cases of diarrhea in cats are due to deep seeded, serious conditions of the intestinal tract. This condition is so complex that we believe there are no easy answers. Therefore, we strongly recommend a Phone Consult. We have successfully treated many cats with this debilitating disease.
We often create a custom formula specifically designed for your cat following the phone consult. For further information, read the article on diarrhea in dogs.
If you do not wish to have a phone consult, we would suggest you start by modifying your cat's diet as described in Feeding Your Cat. Some cats respond well to raw food diets. Others worsen when given raw food diets. You will have to see how your cat responds.
One general product we highly recommend is UltraClear Plus. Another basic product we recommend is a probiotic called Multi-Probiotic 40 Billion.
Perhaps the best all-around product is GI-Revive. Gastriplex will help heal the stomach, the small intestines and the colon.
Finally, consider adding a digestive enzyme, Dipan 9.
Combined Approach to the Use of Nutraceuticals, Western Medicine, Herbal Medicine Liver Disease
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
Western medicine is very effective in diagnosing liver disease, but less effective in its treatment. Integrative medical approaches are available that can improve the chance of success with even the most difficult liver disorders. This paper will cover some of the medical aspects of liver disease, available western therapies, and then cover a variety of herbal, nutritional and nutraceutical therapies that have proven therapeutic value.
Introduction
The liver is able to regenerate itself completely, even after major damage. For example, two-thirds of the liver can be removed and the organ will regenerate in a few months. Although it can effectively restore itself to normal function, Western medicine has for the most part failed to emphasize liver restorative therapies. In contrast, holistic or integrative medicine (also called functional medicine) does seek to utilize medicinal approaches that are aimed at liver protection and liver restoration.
Western medicine is at its most effective in diagnosing various pathophysiological changes, and in treating secondary sequelae of liver disorders, such as dehydration, ascites, hepatoencephalopathy, infections, and inflammation.
This page will include a discussion of the Western approach to liver therapy and then emphasize a variety of integrative approaches that often can successfully restore the patient's health.
Western Medicine and Liver Disorders
Liver disorders cannot be diagnosed with blood tests alone. An accurate diagnosis combines the use of blood tests, liver function tests (fasting and post prandial bile salts), ultrasound examination, radiographs, and liver biopsies.
Diagnoses for liver pathology include cirrhosis, hepatic lipidosis, infectious hepatitis, non-specific hepatitis, hemochromatosis, toxic hepatopathies (including aflatoxicosis, drug induced hepatic inflammation and, in people, alcohol), hepatic neoplasia, sclerosing cholangitis, cholangiohepatitis, copper induced hepatitis, insecticides and herbicides that cause hepatopathies (pendimethalin, dicamba, imidacloprid), nodular hyperplasia, portosystemic shunts, neoplasia, and fibrosis. Other liver disorders include lymphocytic cholangitis, lymphocytic-plasmacytic cholangiohepatitis, lymphocytic portal hepatitis, chronic nonsuppurative cholangiohepatitis, and biliary cirrhosis. All of these diagnoses are essentially histopathological descriptions, and most do not have specific etiologies and therapies, although they may have different prognoses.
There are a number of extra-hepatic diseases causing liver changes, including systemic infections, inflammatory bowel disease, pancreatitis, cholestasis of sepsis, endocrine diseases (diabetes, hypothyroid, hyperthyroid, hyperadrenocorticism). One should attempt to diagnose these causes and treat them and the associated liver disease.
Before therapy, Western medicine will attempt to achieve a histopathological diagnosis, mostly using ultrasound, ultrasound-guided biopsies, and educated guesses using breed and age associated incidence. After diagnosis, most animals are placed on limited protein diets. Possible therapies include lactulose, antibiotics, corticosteroids, diuretics and in some cases, colchicine for liver cirrhosis, D-Penicillamine (cirrhosis), H2 acid blockers, cisapride (Propulsid), and hypertensive agents.
In general, Western medicine is highly successful in diagnosis and prognosing liver disorders, but of much less success in therapeutically altering the course of the disease.
Holistic Approach to Liver Disease
A holistic approach to liver disease varies by the integrative therapies available to the practitioner. In general, the Western medical model is utilized for its ability to prognose the severity of the disorder and capacity to institute life saving therapeutics aimed at symptom reduction. Then, the doctor will employ alternative therapies to promote healing. These therapies include:
- Homeopathy
- Traditional Chinese Medicine
- Chinese Herbal Medicine
- Acupuncture
- Western Herbal Medicine
- Therapeutic Touch
- Distant Healing (Reiki, Pranic Healing, Nogier Pulse)
- Applied Kinesiology
- Nutraceutical and Functional Medicine
The rest of this page will discuss the holistic or combined integrative medical approach to the treatment of liver disorders, emphasizing nutraceutical and herbal therapies.
The Liver and Detoxification
With liver disease, there will be diminished detoxification, since it is estimated that 75% of detoxification occurs in the liver and the other 25% in the intestine. While the liver is healing, the doctor must help support detoxification. One can do this by fasting and supplying detoxification factors, once one understands hepatic detoxification.
Hepatic detoxification functions are complex and vary by the individual. Two main detoxification pathways are the Phase I path involving cytochrome P450 and Phase II conjugation reactions. Phase I and cytochrome P450 is actually a large "super family" of isoenzymes involving the conversion of fat-soluble substances to more water-soluble molecules. Phase II detoxification involves enzyme conjugation reactions involving acetylation, glucuronidation, sulfation, glutathione conjugation and amino acid conjugation. Nutritional intervention can be employed to support and balance Phase I and II Detoxification. Products of Phase I detoxification are often more toxic than the products that preceded them. So, if Phase II detoxification fails, toxins are stored in fat and can spill over into the blood causing tissue damage.
Cats are relatively deficient in Phase II enzymes. Supplements that are particularly beneficial in support of feline detoxification include arginine, taurine, glucuronic acid and sulfate.
Most liver patients should be given a balanced Nutraceutical formula that addresses both Phase I and II detoxification needs. Adding herbs that assist detoxification and herbs that help remove bile and clean the blood will improve most patients.
Fasting-Limiting Nutrient Intake and allows for detoxification and healing
Fasting in cats-Caution, especially in obese cats
- Limited feeding of hard to digest foods
- Quality, moderate protein diets
- Low fat diets
- Limiting synthetic chemicals, preservatives
- Feeding high quality readily digestible proteins
- Feeding hypoallergenic diets to patients with food allergies
Herbs
- Milk Thistle-Animal Apawthecary, Eclectic Institute
- Dandelion-Animal Apawthecary, Eclectic Institute
- Nutraceuticals
- N-Acetyl-L-Cysteine
- Coenzyme Q 10
- Antioxidants
- Vitamin A, C, E, Selenium
- Quercetin
- Alpha Lipoic Acid
- L-Glutamine
- L-Methionine
- Combination Products
- UltraClear Plus-Metagenics
- GI-Revive (when the intestinal tract is involved)
Diarrhea to Feeding Your Cat
Diarrhea; Treating Acute Diarrhea And Chronic Diarrhea in Dogs
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
Dogs commonly develop acute diarrhea. Because we are all concerned about our dog's welfare, we often run them in to see the veterinarian at the first signs of diarrhea. This is usually not necessary, and often will end up being detrimental to the dog if antibiotics are needlessly prescribed. Chronic diarrhea is less common, but is more serious and will require more effort to correct. First, lets look at acute diarrhea.
Acute Diarrhea
Acute diarrhea starts suddenly and lasts for a few days to a week or two. Most cases of acute diarrhea can be handled at home.
When do you need to take your dog to see the veterinarian? Look at how they are acting. Dogs that can be watched at home will act reasonably fine the whole time. They eat, drink, play, and have fairly normal energy. Of course, everyone with diarrhea will not feel 100% normal, so expect your dog to be a bit "off" until the diarrhea resolves.
Let's begin by defining what we mean when we say that a dog has diarrhea. Diarrhea, in the minds of many people, means a watery stool. Actually, the definition is much broader, and includes any abnormal stool that is softer than normal. This includes watery stools, straining and trying to defecate and only passing gas, soft-formed stools, soft stools with abnormal color or odor, and "cow pie" type stools.
In our canine friends, consumption of items found around their "world" is common. It is in the nature of a dog to eat many things we would never eat. Dogs are omnivores that are primarily carnivorous... with a touch of scavenger thrown in! This makes them prone to eat some things, both digestible and indigestible (for example, sticks and stones) that do not agree with them. The result: diarrhea.
They will commonly vomit a few times as well as have diarrhea, again, to clear their body of the unwanted toxins. Diarrhea purges the body of harmful or unwanted toxins, not a true "disease".
Acute diarrhea is a process the body uses to heal itself, not a disease. Don't be alarmed if your dog is acting reasonably well. This healing reaction should be supported, using our suggestions, not inhibited by the use of antibiotics or over the counter drugs designed to stop diarrhea.
Dogs will naturally develop diarrhea as a means to return themselves to health. Acute diarrhea is usually a healthy, healing process, not a disease. So, now that we know that this is not a problem, and in fact it is a healthy reaction to help them heal themselves, what should we do?
Most cases are easy to treat at home and don't require a visit to the veterinarian. After all, we don't run to the doctor every time we have a touch of diarrhea.
If your dog has diarrhea and seems to be reasonably strong, happy and active, simply follow these guidelines:
- Cut the amount of food you are feeding in half
- Feed home cooked bland diets; they are vastly superior to the commercial bland diets promoted by many veterinarians
- Bland foods include:
- 1/3 meat
- Cooked meats that are very low in fat such as chicken (you can also boil hamburger, which will remove all the fat)
- 2/3 rice or other bland grain )
- Cottage Cheese
- White Rice (some will do better on cooked oatmeal)
- Do not add any oils or fats to the diet at this point
- 1/3 meat
- To the Bland Food, add:
- Yogurt 1-3 tablespoons per meal (yogurt is soothing but does not really provide any significant beneficial bacteria....
- Provide a probiotic. We recommend Douglas Laboratories Multi-Probiotic 40 Billion
- Boiled Sweet Potato: 2-4 tablespoons
- Consider giving GI-Revive if your dog has repeated bouts.
Keep feeding this bland diet for at least a couple days after the diarrhea clears up.
When should you take your dog to the veterinarian? If your dog seems to:
- Act very sick
- Be lethargic
- Show bloating or abdominal pain
- Be feverish (Rectal temperatures above 103.5 degrees F)
- Be dehydrated (one way to try to decide if a dog is dehydrated is to feel his or her gums... if they feel dry or tacky, there may be dehydration present)
- Have persistent vomiting
- Be passing large amounts of blood in the stool
Chronic Diarrhea
Chronic diarrhea means:
- Diarrhea, with one or more of these symptoms:
- Watery stools
- Soft-Formed Stools
- Mucus coated stools
- Blood coated stools
- A normal stool followed by a soft stool
- The diarrhea could be continual
- The diarrhea can also be off and on, with some good days followed by some bad days
- Your dog might act sick during the worst bouts of diarrhea, while other dogs might act normal the whole time
- As the problem continues, dogs can loose weight, develop a rough coat, become lethargic, or lack the zest for life they used to have
Long-standing diarrhea can become a severely debilitating disorder. Over time, the body loses valuable nutrients (maldigestion), becomes depleted of immune system functions, and becomes toxic (25% of the body's detoxification mechanism resides in the intestinal lining). This cycle of events damages the body's ability to repair itself. Secondary disorders often develop which worsen the prognosis. Because of the chronic damage to the rest of the body, there are not enough immune function and metabolic products to heal the intestines. Thus we have a cycle of deterioration that can be very hard to reverse.
Conventional medicine often fails to heal chronic diarrhea. Its approach tends to follow along a couple lines. First, the dog is fed foods that are extremely bland and easy to digest, often called "hypoallergenic diets".
Dogs with healthy digestive systems should be able to eat a large variety of foods, including raw foods, without developing diarrhea. Dogs that need to eat special foods to keep from having diarrhea are not healthy. Don't ignore the symptoms by feeding hypoallergenic or bland diets. Find out what the problem is and fix it. Our Phone Consult service can help.
This may help for a short time, but the body needs complex nutrients for optimal health - nutrients that are destroyed by the extreme processing employed in making commercial diets.
Secondly, conventional veterinary medicine relies on multiple courses of antibiotics, often combined with immune suppressive drugs (corticosteroids, for example). Unfortunately, many cases are only palliated, not cured, and over time the dog will worsen. This is an excellent example where holistic therapies can help cure your dog.
The causes of chronic diarrhea include:
- Leaky Gut Syndrome
- Intestinal parasites, especially whipworms (tapeworms are usually harmless) and more rarely roundworms and coccidia.
- Giardia, Clostridium, bacteria (these are usually secondary infections, see also Paraguard for treatment of Giardia)
- Food Allergies (this is usually secondary to the Leaky Gut Syndrome)
- Inflammatory Bowel Disease
- Irritable Bowel Syndrome
- Chronic digestion of foods and indigestible objects such as rocks and sticks
- Organic diseases such as liver disease, thyroid disease and kidney disease
- Dysbiosis (a relatively permanent alteration from a normal intestinal microbial flora to an abnormal bacterial, fungal or protozoal population)
As you can see, there are many problems that need to be addressed to heal these patients. Our guidelines can help many patients, but severe cases need a knowledgeable holistic doctor. For phone consults, click here
Products To Aid In Healing Dogs With Chronic Diarrhea
- GI-Revive- intestinal healing formula
- Douglas Laboratories Multi-Probiotic 40 Billion - beneficial bacteria
- Ultraclear Plus - complex nutraceutical formula to heal the gut
- MetaFiber - beneficial fiber that also absorbs toxins
- Similase - digestive enzyme support
- Paraguard - antimicrobial products that may help with Giardia, bacteria and protozoans
- Dipan 9 - Pancreatic digestive enzyme
Essential Fatty Acids
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
There are a number of different fatty acids, which can be roughly divided into saturated fatty acids (solids at room temperature, animal source) and unsaturated fatty acids (vegetable fats that are liquids at room temperature). Saturated fatty acids have been linked to heart disease and other disorders with people, although their role in animals is not as clear. It seems likely that carnivores should process saturated fats better and not suffer the untoward effects as seen in man. Unsaturated fatty acids are actually cardioprotective and decrease the incidence of neoplasia.
Essential fatty acids are required in the diet, as they cannot be produced in the body. There are two essential fatty acids in people, linoleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid. Dogs and cats can't convert O-3 to O-6 or the opposite. Thus, linoleic acid (O-6) and linolenic acid (O-3) are essential in the dog and cat.
Arachadonic acid is required in the diet of cats, and can only be acquired from animal fat sources (thus, cats can not be vegetarians). Cats do not produce delta_6_dehydrongenase, the enzyme required to convert alpha-linolenic acid to eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), so if one wishes to increase the amount of EPA, it is best to supplement with omega 3 fatty acids, such as those found in cold water fish oils.
Salmon, menhaden and mackerel oils, for example, all contain large amount of EPA and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). Even in humans, only 10% of flax ALA is converted to EPA; this would suggest your flax dose be 10X your fish oil dose, if you have fixed doses. We use only salmon or menhaden oil. Linoleic acid's first double bond (i.e. unsaturated bond) is located at the sixth carbon, thus it is called an omega 6 fatty acid. Alpha-linolenic acid's first unsaturated bond is at the third carbon, thus it is called an omega 3 fatty acid. They are necessary constituents of cell membranes, for the synthesis of prostaglandins and related compounds, and in nurturing the skin. They are also required for reproduction, normal hair and feather development and wound healing . There are two other naturally occurring fatty acids of less significance, omega 7 and omega 9 fatty acids, as the body can synthesize these.
In people, the diets are shifted heavily in the direction of the omega 6 fatty acids, resulting in tissue levels of omega 6's at 20:1 over omega 3 fatty acids. Animal diets are probably similar, as omega 3 fatty acids have a much greater average cost factor. This is significant is that the different fatty acids produce different prostaglandins and perform different functions in the body. People should have tissue ratios of 4:1, omega 6 to omega 3 fatty acids for optimal health. This may be similar in animals, but has not been proven.
In general, omega 3 fatty acids reduce the inflammatory response and omega 6 fatty acids enhance inflammation. Since omega 3 fatty acids are more limited in the diet, it is easier to see beneficial effects from their supplementation. Additionally, desaturase enzymes (which elongate and desaturate fatty acids, thus converting them to different ones) have a greater affinity for omega 3 fatty acids, so increasing the amount of omega 3 fatty acids will decrease the amount of omega 6 fatty acids.
Benefits of omega 3 fatty acids include:
- Inhibition of tumor development and tumor metastasis
- Lowering of cholesterol levels, modifying platelet and vascular function, heart disease therapy
- Improving arthritis
- Relief of allergic symptoms, eczema and psoriasis
- Diminish the inflammatory response
Of particular significance for this discussion on the omega 3 fatty acids is eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), which are derived in the largest amounts from cold-water fish oils. EPA seems to be a potent inhibitor of the inflammatory cascade, as it is a regulator of enzymes that control the pathway of omega 6 fatty acids to eicosanoids. EPA also inhibits delta_5_desaturase and thus decreases arachidonic acid production in the dog and man, but not the cat. The arachidonic acid pathway produces leukotrienes and prostaglandin E_2 (PGE_2), which produce inflammation.
EPA has been shown to:
- Improve allergies in people, through modulating the humeral and inflammatory components of the allergic response
- Can help relieve the symptoms of canine atopic dermatitis
These inflammatory prostaglandins (PGE-2) are often considered the "bad" ones, but this is not accurate, as they do play an important role in the body's healing process. The inflammatory response should not always be inhibited, and many cases actually need omega 6 fatty acids to promote the inflammatory response. One popular fatty acid that can play this role is gamma linoleic acid (GLA). GLA has been shown to inhibit the activity of Natural Killer Cells, promote the Arachadonic pathway and produce PGE-2 and leukotrienes. It will also increase delta 6-desaturase activity, an enzyme often missing in dogs and people with atopy.
Many nutraceutical manufacturers produce products that have combinations of omega 3 and 6 fatty acids, often presented in the 4:1 ratio as previously mentioned. These combination products may allow the body to regulate the levels of prostaglandin E-1 and E-2 and other components of the inflammatory response, thus allowing for proper healing to take place.
Some people think that flax seed oil is the best source of fatty acids as it has a relatively low level of saturated fats (9% of the total fat content), has smaller amounts of linoleic acid (14 % of the total fat content, an omega 6 fatty acid) and high amounts of alpha linolenic acid (58% of the total fat content, an omega 3 fatty acid). This is due primarily because the cost is so much less than giving a more pure omega 3 supplement such as cold-water fish oils, and to the fact that the omega 6 oils are in relatively small amounts. However, most manufacturers actually mix fish oils, flax oil, borage oil, and a vegetable oil such as safflower oil to achieve the 4:1 ratio, and thus give the body the building blocks to produce either inflammation enhancing or inhibiting prostaglandins. This allows the body to decide which direction it needs to go with its own system of regulating inflammation.
If the condition being treated is primarily one of inflammation (e.g. arthritis or dermatitis), it is likely that omega 3 fatty acids would be indicated. There is evidence, as well, to support the use of omega 3 fatty acids in the treatment of neoplastic conditions.
Essential Oils
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
There are a number of different fatty acids which can be roughly divided into saturated fatty acids (solids at room temperature, animal source) and unsaturated fatty acids (vegetable fats that are liquids at room temperature). Saturated fatty acids have been linked to heart disease and other disorders in people, although their role in animals is not as clear. It seems likely that carnivores should process saturated fats better and not suffer the adverse effects (heart disease, atherosclerosis) seen in man. Unsaturated fatty acids are actually cardioprotective and decrease the incidence of neoplasia.
Essential fatty acids are required in the diet, as they cannot be produced in the body. There are two essential fatty acids in people, linoleic acid (O-6) and alpha-linolenic acid (O-3). Dogs and cats can't convert O-3 to O-6 or the opposite. Thus, linoleic acid (O-6) and alpha-linolenic acid (O-3) are essential in the dog and cat.
Arachadonic acid is required in the diet of cats, and can only be acquired from animal fat sources. Cats do not produce delta_6_dehydrongenase, the enzyme required to convert alpha-linolenic acid to eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), so if one wishes to increase the amount of EPA, it is best to supplement with omega 3 fatty acids, such as those found in cold water fish oils. Salmon, menhaden and mackerel oils, for example, all contain large amount of EPA and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). Even in humans, only 10% of flax ALA is converted to EPA. This would suggest that your flax dose be 10X your fish oil dose, if you have fixed doses. I use only salmon or menhaden oil. Linoleic acid's first double bond (i.e. unsaturated bond) is located at the sixth carbon, thus it is called an omega 6 fatty acid. Alpha-linolenic acid's first unsaturated bond is at the third carbon, thus it is called an omega 3 fatty acid. They are necessary constituents of cell membranes, for the synthesis of prostaglandins and related compounds, and in nurturing the skin. They are also required for reproduction, normal hair and feather development, and wound healing. There are two other naturally occurring fatty acids of less significance, omega 7 and omega 9 fatty acids, as the body can synthesize these.
In people, the diets are shifted heavily in the direction of the omega 6 fatty acids, resulting in tissue levels of omega 6's at 20:1 over omega 3 fatty acids. Animal diets are probably similar, as omega 3 fatty acids have a much greater average cost factor. This is significant in that the different fatty acids produce different prostaglandins and perform different functions in the body. People should have tissue ratios of 4:1 omega 6 to omega 3 fatty acids for optimal health. This may be similar in animals, but has not been proven.
In general, omega 3 fatty acids reduce the inflammatory response and omega 6 fatty acids enhance inflammation. Since omega 3 fatty acids are more limited in the diet, it is easier to see beneficial effects from their supplementation. Additionally, desaturase enzymes (which elongate and desaturate fatty acids, thus converting them to different ones) have a greater affinity for omega 3 fatty acids, so increasing the amount of omega 3 fatty acids will decrease the amount of omega 6 fatty acids. Benefits of omega 3 fatty acids include:
- Inhibition of tumor development and tumor metastasis
- Lowering of cholesterol levels, modifying platelet and vascular function, heart disease therapy
- Improving arthritis
- Relief of allergic symptoms, eczema and psoriasis
- Diminish the inflammatory response
Of particular significance for this discussion on the omega 3 fatty acids is eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), which are derived in the largest amounts from cold-water fish oils. EPA seems to be a potent inhibitor of the inflammatory cascade, as it is a regulator of enzymes that control the pathway of omega 6 fatty acids to eicosanoids. EPA also inhibits delta_5_desaturase and thus decreases arachidonic acid production in the dog and man, but not the cat. The arachidonic acid pathway produces leukotrienes and prostaglandin E_2 (PGE_2), which produce inflammation. EPA has been shown to:
- Improve allergies in people, through modulating the humoral and inflammatory components of the allergic response
- Help relieve the symptoms of canine atopic dermatitis
These inflammatory prostaglandins (PGE-2) are often considered the "bad" ones, but this is not accurate, as they do play an important role in the body's healing process. The inflammatory response should not always be inhibited, and many cases actually need omega 6 fatty acids to promote the inflammatory response. One popular fatty acid that can play this role is gamma linoleic acid (GLA). GLA has been shown to inhibit the activity of Natural Killer Cells, promote the Arachadonic pathway and produce PGE-2 and leukotrienes. It will also increase delta 6-desaturase activity, an enzyme often missing in dogs and people with atopy.
Many nutraceutical manufacturers produce products that have combinations of omega 3 and 6 fatty acids, often presented in the 4:1 ratio as previously mentioned. These combination products may allow the body to regulate the levels of prostaglandin E-1 and E-2 and other components of the inflammatory response, thus allowing for proper healing to take place.
Some people think that flax seed oil is the best source of fatty acids as it has a relatively low level of saturated fats (9% of the total fat content), smaller amounts of linoleic acid (14 % of the total fat content, an omega 6 fatty acid), and high amounts of alpha linolenic acid (58% of the total fat content, an omega 3 fatty acid). This is due primarily because the cost is so much less than giving a more pure omega 3 supplement such as cold-water fish oils, and to the fact that the omega 6 oils are in relatively small amounts. However, most manufacturers actually mix fish oils, flax oil, borage oil, and a vegetable oil such as safflower oil to achieve the 4:1 ratio, and thus give the body the building blocks to produce either inflammation enhancing or inhibiting prostaglandins. This allows the body to decide which direction it needs to go with its own system of regulating inflammation.
If the condition being treated is primarily one of inflammation (e.g. arthritis or dermatitis), it is likely that omega 3 fatty acids would be indicated. There is evidence, as well, to support the use of omega 3 fatty acids in the treatment of neoplastic conditions
Feather Grooming Disorders
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
Commonly called "feather plucking", a much better term for this condition is Feather Grooming Disorders. Why? First, many birds don't pluck feathers; they chew them and over-preen them to the point that the feather becomes damaged. Most of these birds start the process by slowly developing excessive preening that then leads to further changes in how they damage their feathers. We will explain that further below.
Western Medicine And Feather Grooming Disorders
Many birds will improve feather growth using our Health Feather Formula
Some avian veterinarians will spend a great deal of time trying to find a physical cause for this problem. This is expensive, invasive to the bird, and not likely to prove beneficial. The vast majority of feather chewing and plucking problems and even self-mutilation (biting or scratching the skin until it bleeds) is based on behavioral, psychological and emotional conditions.
Some birds with dull feathers are hypothyroid and can be treated using our Hypothyroid Chinese Herbal Support formula
Certainly, there are often secondary skin infections or some of the feather follicles will develop infections that may need to be treated. Many birds come from aviaries and pet stores already sick, hide their illnesses, and (amazing but true) can carry these diseases for years before they become outwardly ill. These illnesses need to be treated but just because they are present in a bird that has feather-grooming problems does not mean that the disease is the cause of the problem. But, the underlying reason the problem developed to begin with is emotionally based.
We always recommend a visit with a competent veterinarian, have appropriate initial tests run, and have any significant problems treated. But, don't get into the cycle of treating with one medication after another in a vain attempt to finally solve a behavioral problem with a drug.
The Real Cause for Grooming Disorders
Why do so many birds in home or aviary situations develop feather-grooming problems when no birds that live in the wild have these problems? The reason for this is that parrots are wild animals. They should be living in the jungle, not in homes. Life in the wild is a full time job. The job is called staying alive, and it takes up a whole day full of activities. They simply have too much to do to develop any compulsive behaviors.
We can never hope to duplicate this experience in a home situation. How could we ever think that by simply supplying some toys to chew on, a television or radio to listen to, and a few hours a day associating with their "people" we are providing everything a bird needs to be happy? For any creature to be truly fulfilled, they need a purpose and a job in their life. Without this, many will develop one behavioral problem or another.
The first thing that may happen is that the bird will start feeling a bit ill at ease. When a bird feels upset, they naturally begin to preen their feathers. Feather preening is a meditative event for a bird that usually leads to their feeling much better, both physically and mentally. Preening feathers stimulates the bird's nerves, lymphatic, and blood vessels (Traditional Chinese Medicine calls this the meridians and acupuncture points). Birds preen along their meridians to move the energy or Qi of their body much like people do with yoga, Qi Gong, and massage therapy.
If a bird remains unsettled, common with so many birds in homes or aviaries, they will continue to preen and preen. This becomes excessive. They preen more than normal, damaging feathers as they continue their behavior. These damaged feathers don't feel normal, so they preen them even more and more, developing a cycle that is hard to alter (an analogy for us is if we have a broken fingernail, where we keep working it over, trying to smooth it out and make it feel normal again. something that usually only happens when we file the nail smooth!). By this continual over preening the bird may create one of several changes to their feathers:
- They can rub off the outer pigment coat, causing what is called "bronzing". This looks like brown spots or a large swath of color change to a brown to gray appearance the surface on the feather. What you are seeing is a lack of the original color, since it is worn off by the excessive preening.
- One theory about feather bronzing is that it is caused by liver disease. This is not true. There are a large number of causes of bronzing, including over-preening, nutritional, hormonal, behavioral (birds can play in such a way that they rub off the normal pigment of the feather that resides out the outer layer of the feather), and internal diseases. Liver disease can be a cause, but is only one of many reasons your bird might have feather disorders)
- Or, the feathers can start to develop a frazzled look, where they don't lie down nicely into a normal soft even look. This often develops into broken off feathers, twisted feathers, and even a fuzzy appearance to the feather. A feather that has been chewed off down to the skin, with only the fuzzy base left intact, causes the fuzzy appearance.
- The bird can start plucking out feathers; the result is that the bird develops areas of the body that are devoid of feathers entirely.
- Finally, some birds will start scratching their skin, causing inflammation to the feather follicles or skin. This can lead to scabs and secondary skin infections. This severe form of abnormal grooming is often the most difficult to treat.
- Birds that have feather-grooming problems are stressed. They may be only mildly stressed, but they are stressed anyway. Stress can often lead to secondary physical illness (reflect on how often we get catch a cold when we are stressed by work or family problems). As we have said, all birds that have feather problems should have veterinary examinations. But, if a disease is found, it is rarely the cause of the feather problem, only an other symptom of emotional stress, poor diets, improper housing, lack of love and nurturing, or simply not having that "job" that we all need to feel fulfilled.
Looking carefully at what I have said, you will see that the treatment of feather problems is very complex. First, we can't put the bird back into the wild, so the primary problem can't be corrected (again, birds in the wild never have feather plucking or chewing problems; their feathers are always in excellent condition). Then, all of the secondary problems that might develop (skin infections, feather folliculitis, nutritional deficiencies, systemic illnesses) must be addressed. Finally, the problem becomes a habit and habits are almost impossible to alter. So, what can we do?
What NOT To Do:
- Placing collars on birds never changes the primary problem. We almost never collar a bird. The exceptions would be either a bird that is causing self-mutilation, or to try to grow in all the feathers one while we work on owner education and environmental changes that will benefit the bird.
- We never use psychoactive drugs. Antidepressants, anti-stress drugs, antihistamines, mood modifiers, and similar drugs are not acceptable. First, in our experience they almost never work, period. If there is any change, the change is rarely anything more than a temporary improvement. We don't even know what these drugs do in birds (there are NO studies of their effects and side effect), but we do know that in people the side effects are often severe and very powerful. And, the bird is simply getting drugged when what he or she really needs is an understanding caretaker.
- Don't give repeated antibiotics, steroids, hormones, and anti-inflammatory drugs. You are only chasing after secondary effects at best, while many doctors are simply hoping to find something, anything that might work.
- Never let a doctor talk you into surgically removing the testicles or ovary. At best, the success rate is poor and it is likely that roughly half the birds that have these surgeries die from the surgery.
What TO Do:
- First, understand that a bird with feather grooming problems is just fine as they are. This is vital to understand. This is not a severe mental problem, simply a mild compulsion. The bird, in all likelihood is quite happy as they are and all they need is for you to love them as they are. The only exception to this is those birds that cause their skin to bleed and develop infections.
- Don't blame yourself; you are not the cause of the problem. You did not take the bird from the wild and you can't create a jungle in your home.
- This does not mean that there are not plenty of things you can do to help your bird be less compulsive and live a fuller, happier life. There are many things you can do. Some of them are suggested in one of the books we recommend:
- Holistic Care For Birds, click here to order, or to read more about this book
- Accept the reality that birds are wild animals that are not trainable like dogs. They need to be free in your home to be themselves. They often will be happier if they are allowed the freedom to fly around the house. Many birds are far happier if you stop trimming their wings.
- Work with a holistic doctor that can prescribe homeopathic remedies, nutraceuticals, and herbal therapies. These can make the bird feel better, not feel drugged.
- Watch your bird carefully, listen to your bird, and, in your mind, keep asking your bird and yourself what she or he wants and needs. Don't listen to the average "bird trainer or behaviorist" and their list of solutions. Read what they have to say but filter most of it out because your bird is a unique individual. Besides, most of the behaviorist's theories reside in the mistaken belief that a bird can be trained. As I have already pointed out, birds are wild animals and are not trainable.
- Finally, please always remember that it is up to you to understand their needs and desires and attempt to meet these needs, not try to alter the bird to meet your needs.
Feeding Your Bird for Health
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
"The doctor of the future will give no medicine but will interest his patients in the care of the human frame, in diet and in the cause and prevention of disease."
- Thomas A. Edison
Nutritional research on feeding parrots and other psittacine birds remains very sparse. A recent literature search listed 14 articles in total. Another source listed 50 articles, but most of them were not research oriented, instead being clinical case studies or the personal opinion of the author. In comparison, there are hundreds of research papers published on nutrition in people each month! Of the various species kept as companion animals or farm animals, it is clear that there is less research in non-poultry avian nutrition than any other group of animals.
Since good nutrition is vital, we have a real dilemma in deciding how to feed parrots. Most of how we feed our birds has evolved from years of trial and error. It is more of an art than a science. Since we know so little information from research, it seems likely that studying what the birds eat in the wild will help us decide how to feed in a home situation. Most of the psittacine species can be considered opportunistic omnivores, meaning they eat what is available in their ecosystem, when it is available. Thus, they eat nuts and grains in the fall and winter (for those living in regions that have seasonal changes). They eat fruiting bodies when they are available. They eat greens and sprouts when they are available, and they likely eat insects and other animals or parts of animals that are found during their foraging for food or on the fruits and grains they are eating. Likely, a significant part of their nutrition is what comes from what they consume digging through the soil and mineral deposits near where they live.
Studying a bird's diet in the wild with the intent of learning how to feed them in captivity becomes nearly impossible, due to the complexity of the undertaking
Complicating the situation further is the wide diversity of species and the varied ecosystems in which the different birds reside. Birds are members of the Class Aves, which is equally as diverse as the Class Mammalia. Lories, chickens, ducks, parrots, finches, doves, hawks and ravens all eat far different diets. Even keeping within relatively similar species, the psittacines for instance, those living in Australia eat far different diets than birds in Africa or South America. Even similar species living in the same country will often eat diets far different than their related species. It has been documented that Amazon parrots, living in the same Amazon River ecosystem as macaws, will eat a diet far different from that of the macaws.
Because of this lack of knowledge about what we need to feed a bird, WellVet.com believes that we must be guided by the basic principles of nutrition that are time tested: feed a variety of fresh foods, feed the seed and grain eating birds fresh seeds and grains, and do not allow the bird to eat too much of any single food item.
Many birds are solely fed seed mixes that have been "fortified" with added vitamins and minerals. Since it's shell protects a seed, no real additional nutrients can be added to the seed since the bird removes the shell and eats the inner seed. This method of feeding birds is no more effective than feeding plain seed, and may be worse. Why Worse? Many of the added nutrients are synthetic vitamins instead of natural vitamins, or the added nutrients come from sources that WellVet.com would consider inappropriate to feed to birds.
It is clear that the outdated method of feeding birds seed diets, then trying to "balance" the diet by adding vitamins and a calcium supplement should be abandoned
Other birds are fed commercial,"formulated diets", also called pelleted diets. Many of these diets have simple sugars to enhance taste, are colored, and contain preservatives. They are also, with few exceptions, made from poorer quality raw ingredients, thus keeping the price down and the profit margin high. Even the "organic" diets are highly processed, destroying many of the most beneficial complex phytonutrients. All commercial diets suffer from the lack of variety that is the key to a healthy diet. All commercial or pelleted diets are based on the absurd premise that we know what to feed these wonderful companion birds. Practical sense tells us that these highly processed commercial diets are not acceptable. If some person suggested to us that we feed ourselves a formulated processed food, the same diet day in and day out, we would reject the concept, knowing the need for high quality fresh foods that are varied throughout the week. Since we know vastly more about nutrition for people, and we understand we can't make a "people pellet" there is no reason to believe that these commercial diets are good for our birds.
It is clear that the outdated method of feeding birds seed diets, then trying to "balance" the diet by adding vitamins and a calcium supplement should be abandoned Commercial diets simply are not a well-conceived or rational alternative to a natural, fresh food diet.
How To Feed Your Bird
It Is NOT Just WHAT You Feed Your Bird, But HOW You Feed
Psittacine birds in their natural habitat will consume a variety of food items, including seeds, nuts, grains, sprouts and leaves, insects, and fruits. Some have even been known to consume meat (mice, small birds, and carcasses). Typically, all birds will subsist entirely on one type of food if it is plentiful, especially if they like the food (this is why we have "sunflower seed addicts, for example). When birds are feeding they are vulnerable to predators, so they want to eat as much as they can as fast as they can and then go back to the safety of their tree. Seeds are ideal in this regard; large amounts can be eaten rapidly. When a bird is given free access to all the seeds they want, they will consume large amounts of seed.
The best method to alter the diet of the "seed addict" is to limit the total amount of all of the different food items provided. The eternally full food cup creates picky eaters that consume only a limited variety of foods
Thus, birds will naturally become "addicted" to their favorite foods if allowed free access to the food items as they like the most. They don't really become addicted, they become accustomed to what they eat, are genetically predetermined to want to fill their crop rapidly, are suspicious by nature when new foods are offered, and, if left to their own accord, will tend to eat only the most tasty treats that are offered.
To correct this, we have to again look at bird's behavior in the wild.
In nature, when their favorite food source is no longer available, birds become hungry. Hunger establishes the foraging instinct, and the bird will seek out new food sources. When provided free access to seeds, the foraging instinct is lost, resulting in birds that subsist entirely on seeds. Offering new foods often fails to broaden the diet, unless you severely limit the food items they most relish. The best method to alter the diet of the "seed addict" is to limit the total amount of every or all varieties of the different food items provided. The eternally full food cup creates picky eaters that consume only a limited variety of foods.
Feed twice daily and only place the appropriate amount of food in the feed cup each time that the bird will consume in a few hours.
It is best to have no food available for 2-4 hours prior to each meal. This makes the bird look forward to the next meal, making them less likely to be picky about what you feed.
You can leave a few pieces of the dry foods they like the least, such as a formulated diet, but they must never have access to the foods they like all the time, or they won't eat the varied diet we want.
Feeding Schedule
For many people the best routine would be to feed seeds or other dry food items (e.g., pellets) in the morning. Either remove the food cups in one hour or make sure that the bird will consume all the available food early in the day by providing small portions. The evening feeding could include other food items such as cheeses, meats, eggs, vegetables and fruits.
The reason most people should feed dry foods in the morning relates to the need to remove perishable foods from the cage before they spoil. Any food that can become spoiled (i.e. Any food that you would not eat yourself if left out on the counter for more than three hours) should never be left in the cage longer than the three-hour limit. Since birds are usually left alone throughout the day, perishable foods cannot be removed from the cage in a few hours, if fed these foods in the morning.
What to Feed
WellVet.com encourages feeding foods to birds that we would be willing to eat ourselves. Birds are at least as sensitive, if not more so, to the potential toxins, pesticides, preservatives, and bacteria in foods as are people. They should be fed only the highest quality foods.
The first step is choosing fresh fruit and vegetables at its peak. It should be firm and have good color, without excessive bruising.
Fruits and vegetables should be carefully cleaned to remove wax and pesticides before feeding. When you bring it home, you must first clean your fruit and vegetables. Wash the wax off the fruit by soaking in warm water, with a little biodegradable soap in the water, adding a little vinegar will help remove the waxy coating applied to many fruits. Scrub off the wax with a clean plastic scrubber. The reason we must wash off the wax and remove the dirt is that we MUST do this in order to wash off the pesticides and herbicides, which are beneath the wax.
The Morning Meal
Feed dry foods in the morning.
- Feed a small amount of seeds
- Small birds should have 1/2 teaspoon of seeds, largest birds 2 tablespoons of seeds
- Feed a few nuts
- Almonds, walnuts, pecans (not many peanuts, they are actually legumes, not nuts)
- Feed small birds a couple chopped pieces, larger birds can have a couple nuts
- Macaws seem to need even more nuts, maybe 6-8 a day
- Feed a few whole grains, organic granolas and whole grain organic breakfast foods are excellent.
- Feed a few pellets or formulated diet
- This helps round out the diet and gives the bird something to eat throughout the day
- DO NOT feed any pelleted diet that has sugars (commonly called by names that end in "ose") or any product that contains preservatives or colorings. We recommend feeding organic formulated diets.
The Evening Meal
This is the time when most people have the time to make up a more complex meal. This is usually the best time to feed the "wet foods" that contain all the fruits, vegetables, legumes, sprouts, meats, and sweet potatoes.
Fruits (can make up to 10% of the entire daily diet)
- Cantaloupe
- Mango
- Grape
- Pear
- Apricot
- Orange
- Apple
- Dates
- Banana
- Papaya
Vegetables and Tubers (can make up to 20% of the diet)
- Carrots
- Kale, Beet tops
- Sweet Potato
- Broccoli
- Dandelion
- Squash
- Beets
- Peppers (capsicum)
- Sweet Potato
Bedtime Treats
Now is the time to remove all food and water cups and thoroughly clean them with soap and water (no need for disinfectants), then dry carefully and you are ready to reuse them.
For bedtime, feed a very small amount of some wholesome food item that they will eat, but not relish. Feed them some whole grains, perhaps a few pieces of organic formulated diet. and add in a treat, perhaps a nut that they like.
Finally, as always, make sure your birds have fresh clean water at bedtime.
Feeding Your Cat
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
To understand how to feed a cat, let's first look at some basic aspects of feline nutrition. Cats are strictly carnivores, with essentially no grains required, and only a small amount of vegetables or other food items needed. Cats thrive on diets made up almost entirely of meat, as long as we feed organ meats and bones as well as muscle meats.
Conventional-minded veterinarians often say that commercial diets are superior to home-prepared diets, because the commercial diets are balanced, while home cooking creates nutritional deficiencies and diseases. The reality is just the opposite, as we will see. First, it is really not hard to feed a good, nutritious diet of fresh foods that you prepare. As we will explain, it is actually easy and very rewarding to provide the type of diet that cats love to eat and actually thrive on.
Let's look at commercial diets. The long-standing veterinarian recommendation has been to feed nothing but a commercial diet (usually one of the "kibble diets," meaning the hard, dry foods). Kibble, or hard cat food, is supposed to improve a cat's teeth. Actually there are no studies that show this, and in our experience, cats with the best teeth are eating a natural food diet.
Many cat owners feed a "wet and dry" meal, meaning they leave out dry food all the time and supplement this by feeding some canned food daily. This is not necessary, and in fact is not needed, as you will see. Further, leaving cat food available is detrimental to the cat. Having food always available creates finicky eaters. Also, not allowing a period of fasting between meals does not allow for the cat to process the food and then detoxify their meals. Over time this will lead to chronic diseases.
Commercial cat diets claim to be nutritionally complete and balanced, and "AAFCO Certified." According to conventional thinking, feeding anything else will lead to a multitude of nutritional diseases. But, when looked at more closely, this idea makes little sense.
First, we know that basic anatomy, biochemistry, and organ function is essentially the same for cats and humans. For people, the most basic concept of a good diet is eating fresh foods, and eating a variety of these foods. We would never think of feeding ourselves out of a can, or of feeding ourselves a monotonous piece of dry "people kibble." And we would never think of feeding ourselves the same food day in and day out, because we know how important variety is to the total diet.
Years ago, nutritionists thought that it hardly mattered what type of foods one ate, as long as the food contained certain levels of amino acids (proteins), fatty acids, and carbohydrates (simple and complex sugars). The "old thought" used to be that the body's digestion would break down any food item into simple amino acids, sugars, and fatty acid; then reassemble them in the body to form the complex molecules required by life. This explains the evolution of foods such as Wonder Bread with 13 added vitamins. As the study of nutrition has advanced, we now know that the body does indeed absorb complex nutritional compounds, not just simple sugars, carbohydrates, and fatty acids. Not only can these complex compounds be absorbed, but also the body actually requires them for optimal health. The body actually "expects" to have these nutrients available, and will utilize these chemicals as building blocks for a variety of processes, including immune function, nerve function, and rebuilding damaged cells, to name a few.
Let's look at some of the most recent research on human nutrition:
"Consuming a diet rich in plant foods will provide a milieu of phytochemicals, non-nutritive substances in plants that possess health-protective benefits."
"Vegetables, fruits, whole grains, herbs, nuts and seeds contain an abundance of phenolic compounds, terpenoids, sulfur compounds, pigments, and other natural antioxidants that have been associated with protection from and/or treatment of conditions such as cardiovascular disease and cancer.
Many of these phytonutrients are not heat stable, especially when cooked extensively, as with commercial cat foods.
Considering the high temperature, high pressure, and processing that commercial cat foods receive, we can expect that these cat foods are totally devoid of the beneficial nutrients mentioned by Dr. Craig in this well-respected study. In recent years, the practice of recommending commercial diets as the only source of food for cats has come under increasing scrutiny, often by trained nutritionists. It has been stated by one veterinarian with a Ph.D. in nutrition that we "are killing our pets with commercial diets." Most holistic doctors agree that the best diets are those with home-prepared foods as part of the diet. Many conventional veterinarians will at least agree that diets will improve when we offer some fresh foods and use variety.
I have seen the health of almost all cats deteriorate in general when fed commercial diets. Conversely, when my feline patients are placed on wholesome diets, fully a third of the cats that arrive in our practice diagnosed with a chronic, incurable disease return to complete health just by the change in diet!
Why are commercial diets so poor? Here are some of the reasons:
- CostEven premium diets cost about one dollar a pound; when we factor in manufacturing, marketing, shipping, packaging, and mark up costs for the manufacturer, the wholesaler, and the retailer, the true cost of the basic ingredients is more likely 10-50 cents per pound.Reflect on what type of raw ingredients can be purchased for this priceCommercial diets are primarily conceived and developed to minimize costs, not maximize nutritionTo keep the cost so low, commercial diets have foods in them that have been rejected for human consumption. Even those that refrain from using condemned foods must resort to including foods that are far worse than what people would demand for themselves
- Diets are made to meet minimal standards, not optimal standardsAgain, due to cost considerations, essential fats, complex carbohydrates, and high-quality digestible proteins are kept to a minimum in the dietHealthy animals can survive on these diets, but over time, there is a price to be paid in deteriorating health and a more rapid aging process for your animal companionSick animals, and those with a more fragile constitution, require high quality, optimal diets
- Over-processing (i.e., high temperature cooking under pressure) is used to make indigestible foods digestibleFood processing plants have known for a very long time that if one wants to feed a food item that is essentially indigestible, the way to do this is to cook the product so excessively that it turns into a soup, then by adding grains (again, after extreme cooking methods), one can cook the product once more and turn it into a hard biscuit or kibbleUnfortunately, all of the complex compounds we already mentioned as being so essential have disappearedVitamins are also gone, so the commercial food industry will then spray vitamins mixed with oils (which have likewise been destroyed) onto the resulting hard kibble at the end of the processing. The vitamins are often synthetic, and the minerals are often poorly digestible at best. An example is zinc oxide and ferrous oxide, forms of zinc and iron supplementation that are often preferred by the food industry because they are so cheap (they are, in reality, rust). But they are very poorly absorbed, making them almost useless in reality
- "Garbage in garbage out," a long-standing truism in the computer world, is just as true in diets: poor quality foods can't become good quality foods, no matter what one tries to do with them. a. To the degree possible, diets should start with the highest quality, most digestible and wholesome food possible, instead of starting with the worst foods and trying to improve them with synthetic vitamins and false claims of being "nutritionally complete." b. This is called the food's "Biological Value."
Labels and Labeling Requirements
All regulations that control the labels on cat foods are created by AAFCO. AAFCO, as has already been stated, is a group controlled by commercial animal food manufacturers. It is not surprising to find that there are enough loopholes in labeling requirements to make it completely impossible to know what is in a diet, let alone the quality of the diet. Any manufacturer who wishes can create the marketing image that their product is a "premium diet."
In fact, most of these premium diets are at best only marginally better than the average diet, and many of them are conceived entirely as a marketing ploy to sell an average diet with a higher mark-up, creating higher profit margins.
One example of how easy it is to use subterfuge to create an image of wholesomeness, or using a term popular in the industry, "natural," is in the use of preservatives. Many companies will use standard preservatives such as ethoxyquin; yet not mention this in the ingredient list. This is possible if the company adds the preservatives themselves, instead of buying a product that already includes them as a preservative. Making the situation even worse is that it is common to then say on the package, "preserved naturally with Vitamin E." This statement naturally implies that no other chemical preservative is in the product, when in fact the company can make this claim by simply adding a little extra Vitamin E than is required by AAFCO to meet minimal needs. The ethoxyquin can then be purchased in a product such as chicken fat that contains ethoxyquin, and thus that information never needs to be placed on the label!
Basic Diet Recommendations for Cats
Note: These diet recommendations will always vary in practice due to the age, health, disease status, and constitution of the cat. Cats are carnivores, so they need meat. No plant foods contain all the proteins that a cat needs to thrive. This is why we do not recommend a vegetarian diet for a cat.
Always start the following recommendations gradually, introducing these foods slowly, over a couple of weeks.
We are giving you basic guidelines that are used when you are feeding a variety of different foods, and home cooking for part of the diet and feeding commercial for the rest of the diet. Feel free to modify our recommendations, but remember that you MUST feed a balanced diet, do NOT let them eat only meat, for example.
THE MEAT COMPONENT
- All cats should be fed, by volume of the total amount fed each meal, 25-50% meat.
The meat can include:BeefChickenTurkeyFish - The easiest way to start this program is to use ground meats. Take the portion to be fed, mix with water, and cook on the stovetop or in the microwave until the meat is cooked medium (pink) to medium-well.Some animals will thrive on raw meats, and we love cats on raw meat diets. Still it is best to use cooked meats at first.Take this meat portion, including the water, (broth?) and add it to the rest of the ingredients
COMMERCIAL CAT FOOD COMPONENT
Although there are many good home-cooking recipes (which we can provide you), we feel that most owners have little time or inclination to routinely feed an entire home-cooked diet for their cat. Good intentions fall by the wayside, and the diet plan is not followed, as it should be. Instead, by feeding some meat, some commercial diet, and the rest as outlined below, the cat receives an excellent, well-balanced diet. Costs are kept at a minimum, and the time required to prepare the diet is so moderate that even the busiest person will be able to follow this feeding protocol.
There are many commercial diets that are good diets. However, none stand out as clearly superior to any other (they are NOT home cooking, after all). There are, however, a large number that are not worth feeding because they are either of too poor a quality or they are not cost effective (remember the average commercial diets that masquerade as premium diets). There are too many of these to mention, but a good clue that the diet falls in this category is if it claims to be "just as good as such and such, but costs less." Or the "premium diet costs less than about a dollar a pound."
We use and recommend the premium canned foods or the commercial frozen raw food diets. If you use dry food you need to add hot water, meat and foods from the variety component below to soften the dry food; in other words feed the food in a stew like consistency.
The commercial diet, hopefully premium quality canned or raw frozen, should be of as high a quality as you can afford, and should make up no more than 25-40% of the diet.
THE VARIETY COMPONENT
- Since grains and other carbohydrates are not necessary, we recommend they be fed sparingly. Their biggest benefit is that they are inexpensive. Using the plan we are outlining, they are even less necessary, because the commercial diets contain grains
- Two of our favorite grains to use is long grain white rice, or quinoa. Many cats have digestive problems, which improve when rice is fed
- Vegetables should be routinely added. We recommend:CarrotsBroccoliPeasLeafy greens
- Sweet potatoes, pumpkin, yams, and squashes are all excellent additions to the diet. Sweet potato is especially good, inexpensive, easy to prepare, and readily accepted. Sweet potato should be cooked, and then can be used a portion at a time over a few days. They can be mashed and mixed so well into the diet that all animals will accept them. Carrots often need to be cooked lightly or shredding/chopped finely, or they may not be accepted or completely digested
- Dairy products can be included sparinglyYogurtCottage Cheese
- Eggs are great to feed, and can be fed cooked or raw. We recommend no more than a couple of eggs a week if fed raw. Cooked eggs can be fed a little more frequently
- Leftovers can be fed as well, as long as they are good food and not excessively fatty or sweet
- The variety component should be just that: fed for variety, one thing one day, and another thing another day. Don't get caught up in a routine where you are feeding the same things all the time. Variety is just as necessary for your cat as it is for yourself
- A couple final thoughts:Legumes (beans, peanuts) are good sources of proteins and fiber, but do not have particularly large amounts of vitamins and tend to provide excessive carbohydrates, which leads to obesity.
ONE HOME COOKING RECIPE
You can feed the mix and match, variety component, as above, or you can use the following recipe for home prepaired diets. Remember, you must have variety in the diet, so swith from meat to the next, and one veggie to the next as part of the feeding plan. The following recipe can be fed as a raw diet or cooked. ALL THE FOODS must be carefully and thoroughly blenderized into a mash, similar to what you find in a can of cat food.
- Two portions of avian muscle meat (turkey or chicken)
- One portion of mammalian muscle meat
- One portion of avian organ meat
- 1/4 portion veggies (mixed frozen are ok, carrots, broccoli, etc)
- 1/4 portion carbohydrate (long grain rice, potato, quinoa)
- 1/2 portion of fish
- Daily, to this for each cat:
- 100 mg calcium Citramate
- Feline Multi vitamin/nutiritional supplement-Rx Vitamins Rx Esentials for Cats is a good one
- Olive oil (NOT fish oil, many cats hate the flavor) or coconut oil 1/4 to 1/2 tsp per meal
- Taurine 75-100 mg (less or more depending on the multi used and how much organ meat fed)
- 1/8 tsp Potassium chloride
- A dash of sea salt
An absolutely wonderful addition to the diet is raw chicken wings, necks, often chopped up somewhat with a meat cleaver (to partially shatter the bones). Another wonderful addition is letting them catch mice, if one can allow that in the cat's environment.
For Diarrhea, Add:
- Cooked white rice, to 25% of the diet
- Cooked sweet potato, to 10% of the total
Feeeding Your Dog to Leaky Gut
Feeding Your Dog
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
To understand how to feed a dog, we first need to understand some basic aspects of canine nutrition. Dogs are almost strictly carnivores. They will eat some grains, fruits and vegetables. Dogs thrive on diets made up almost entirely of meat, as long as we feed some organ meat, bones, grains and vegetables.
Most dogs on any diet will benefit from a good quality Nutritional Supplement. Our favorite nutritional product for dogs is Rx Vitamins Essentials for Dogs.
Conventional-minded veterinarians often say that commercial diets are superior to home cooked natural foods because the commercial diets are balanced, while home cooking creates nutritional deficiencies and diseases. The reality is just the opposite, as we will see. First, it is really not hard to feed a good, nutritious diet of fresh foods that you prepare. As we will explain, it is actually easy and very rewarding to provide the type of diet that dogs love to eat and one on which they will thrive.
First, let's look at commercial diets. Commercial diets, by and large, are highly processed, monotonous diets. For people, the most basic concept of a good diet is eating fresh foods and eating a variety of these foods. We would never think of feeding ourselves out of a can, or feeding ourselves a monotonous piece of dry "people" kibble. And we would never think of feeding ourselves the same food day in and day out, because we know how important variety is to the total diet.
Nutritionally speaking, dogs are very close to us, and should also be fed a diet filled with fresh foods that are minimally processed.
Many dogs should receive a calcium supplement when home feeding, we recommend Calcium Citramate.
Why is it so important to feed fresh foods? Let's look at what one study says about fresh, minimally processed foods:
"Vegetables, fruits, whole grains, herbs, nuts and seeds contain an abundance of phenolic compounds, terpenoids, sulfur compounds, pigments, and other natural antioxidants that have been associated with protection from and/or treatment of conditions such as cardiovascular disease and cancer."
Craig W, Beck L. Phytochemicals: Health Protective Effects. Can J Diet Pract Res. 1999 Summer;60(2):78-84.
Many of these wonderful nutrients are NOT heat stable, and are destroyed during the high temperature processing of commercial diets.
It has been stated by one veterinarian with a Ph.D. in nutrition that we "are killing our pets with commercial diets".
Holistic veterinarians agree that the best diets are those with home-prepared foods as part of the diet.
Feeding a diet that incorporates home cooking with commercial kibble:
I. Meat Portion:
a. All dogs should be fed, by volume of the total amount fed each meal, 25-50% meat
b. The meat can include:
i. Beef
ii. Chicken
iii. Turkey
iv. Fish
c. The easiest way to start this program is to use ground meats. Take the portion to be fed, mix with water, and cook on the stovetop or in the microwave until the meat is cooked medium (pink) to medium-well. Some animals will thrive on raw meats, but do not start this practice in the beginning.
i. Take this meat portion, including the water, and add it to the rest of the ingredients
Your Animal's Specific Recommendations: Only available following a phone consult
II. Commercial Dog Food Portion
a. Although there are many good home-cooking recipes (which we can provide you), we feel that most owners have little time or inclination to routinely feed an entirely home-cooked diet for their dog. Good intentions fall by the wayside, and the diet plan is not followed as it should be. Instead, by feeding some meat, some commercial diet, and the rest as outlined below, the dog receives an excellent, well-balanced diet. Costs are kept at a minimum, and the time required to prepare the diet is so moderate that even the busiest person will be able to follow this feeding protocol.
b. There are many commercial diets that are good diets. However, none stand out as clearly superior to any other (they are NOT home cooking, after all). There are, however, a large number that are not worth feeding because they are either of too poor a quality or they are not cost effective (remember the average commercial diets that masquerade as premium diets). There are too many of these to mention, but a good clue that the diet falls in this category is if it claims to be "just as good as such and such, but costs less", or the "premium diet costs less than about a dollar a pound".
d. The commercial diet, whether dry food or canned, should be of as high a quality as you can afford, and should make up no more than 25-40% of the diet.
Your Animal's Specific Recommendations: Only available following a phone consult
III. The Variety Component
a. Since grains and other carbohydrates are not necessary, we recommend they be fed sparingly. Their biggest benefit is that they are inexpensive. Using the plan we are outlining, they are even less necessary, because the commercial diets contain grains. One of our favorite grains to use is white rice. Many dogs have digestive problems, which improve when rice is fed.
b. Vegetables should be routinely added. We recommend:
i. Carrots
ii. Broccoli
iii. Peas
iv. Leafy greens
c. Sweet potatoes , pumpkin, yams, and squashes are all excellent additions to the diet. Sweet potato is especially good, inexpensive, easy to prepare, and readily accepted. Sweet potato should be cooked, and can then be used a portion at a time over a few days. They can be mashed and mixed so well into the diet that all animals will accept them. Carrots often need to be cooked lightly or shredded/chopped finely, or they may not be accepted or completely digested.
d. Dairy products can be included sparingly. Our favorites are:
i. Yogurt
ii. Cottage Cheese
e. Eggs are great to feed, and can be fed cooked or raw. We recommend no more than a couple of eggs a week, if fed raw. Cooked eggs can be fed a little more frequently.
f. Leftovers can be fed as well, as long as they are good food and not excessively fatty or sweet.
g. The variety component should be just that: fed for variety, one thing one day, and another thing another day. Don't get caught up in a routine where you are feeding the same things all the time. Variety is just as necessary for your dog as it is for yourself.
h. A couple final thoughts:
i. Corn is not a vegetable. It is a grain, and it is in plentiful supply in almost all commercial diets. so there is no reason to feed corn.
ii. Legumes (beans, peanuts) are good sources of proteins and fiber, but do not have particularly large amounts of vitamins and tend to provide excessive carbohydrates, which leads to obesity.
Your Animal's Specific Recommendations: Only available following a phone consult
Ferrets and Insulinomas
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
Ferrets commonly develop low blood sugar levels (hypoglycemia) due to a tumor of the pancreas called an insulinoma. The low blood sugar levels can produce signs in ferrets that include:Muscle weaknessLethargyRubbing or pawing at the faceLoss of appetite (or increased appetite)Stumbling, drunk appearanceHead thrown over shoulders or sidewaysComa and death
Insulinomas are malignant cancers of the pancreas, specifically involving a cell type in the pancreas called Islet Cells (more specifically, the Beta Cells). They can be seen in ferrets of any adult age, but are most common in ferrets over 3 years of age.
The cause is unknown, but we believe poor diets have a major role in the development of these common cancers. Ferrets are pure carnivores and should be eating meat. Most ferret diets include large amounts of grain, which can not be healthy for the ferret.
We also believe that irresponsible inbreeding, so commonly practiced with ferrets, is another cause. Finally, ferrets are neutered at absurdly young ages, which must play an adverse role in a ferret's general health. It is simply not normal to have so little hormonal activity from such a young age.
Traditional Therapies
Diets
Routine diet recommendations for ferrets with insulinomas include the use of commercial diets with the addition of Ensure or other similar liquid diet when the ferret does not eat.
We believe that it is very helpful to feed your ferret small meals, several times a day.
We also recommend placing the ferret on a diet very high in meat. Cut up chicken wings, chicken legs, and chicken necks are excellent additions to the diet. Any meat the ferret will eat that does not come from a can is acceptable. The meat can be fed raw or cooked lightly.
If your ferret refuses to eat for any reason, try taking ground beef, cook well, add extra water and place in a food processor or blender until liquefied. This is a much better liquid diet than the above-mentioned Ensure.
We recommend Sport Geriatric Vitamin by Thorne as an excellent addition to their diet as well.
Feeding many small meals is essential as the disease progresses. Keep some form of a simple sugar source such as honey or Karo Syrup on hand if the ferret goes into a hypoglycemic shock or coma. Feed these simple sugars only when absolutely necessary.
Medical Therapy
Traditional Western medical care includes giving prednisone or prednisolone from the earliest signs of hypoglycemia. Prednisone is often given in extremely high doses.
We do not use Prednisone as early in the disease course as many veterinarians, believing that there are other therapies in the earlier stages of disease.
We usually use much lower doses of prednisone as well.
Another drug, Diazoxide (Proglycem), has anti-insulin effects and may also be helpful at times.
Surgery
Surgery is often not the answer.
Surgery cannot remove all the tumors in your ferret. It can help some severely hypoglycemic ferrets for a time.
Insulinomas are usually small tumors of the pancreas, with many present at the same time. Surgery rarely removes all the tumors, and thus you only buy a little time at best.
We think that medical care is far superior to surgery, when combined with appropriate supplements.
Before any surgery, an ultrasound should be performed. This might tell you how advanced the disease is and if there are other issues, such as adrenal tumors. If there are, and the adrenal gland tumor is only on one side, it can be surgically treated. The best treatment for adrenal gland tumors appears to be cryosurgery (freezing the adrenal gland).
Complementary Therapy
We often recommend a product that regulates insulin metabolism, called Diabenil (Thorne Research). It has been very helpful in many cases.
Treating to slow the development of the cancer is also very important.
For ferrets, we would recommend:
Power Mushrooms
OmegaGenics EPA-DHA 500
Immugen
We strongly recommend against the use of Brewer's yeast, something that is commonly recommended in some other discussions on insulinomas of ferrets. Brewer's yeast has chromium, which might help slightly, but the amount of carbohydrates in the product makes its use contraindicated.
For further information, see our product information articles for Diabenil.
Geriatric Case Study
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
History:
A mixed breed retriever type, female, 15 years old, was presented with a complaint of unable to rise, developing cataracts, poor hair coat, and difficult defecation.
Physical Examination:
- Trouble rising, partially due to the hips and partially due to mild paresis
- Dry, dull coat, mildly obese
- Developing mild posterior cataracts in both eyes
- The dog has hard stools and tends to fall down when defecating
Blood Test Results:
- T4 (thyroid): low normal
- SGPT: mild elevated
Therapeutic plan:
- Active Bovine Glandular Thyroid, 4 grains twice daily
- Glucosamine sulfate, 500 mg twice daily
- DL Phenylalanine, 500 mg twice daily
- Dimethylglycine, 100 mg twice daily
Results:
Over the course of two months, the coat dramatically improved, weight was reduced 10%, and dog seemed much more energetic
The cataracts stopped progressing
The dog started to sleep normally at night
She was able to climb stairs and play again
The owners reported her to be more active than in last 2 years
Rationale
Glucosamine Sulfate
In some ways, considered to be the Gold Standard of nutraceutical supplements for arthritis
Why:
Glycosaminoglycan (GAG) are chemically similar to the mucopolysaccharides of cartilaginous tissue, hyaluronic acid
There are a number of different GAGs in the body, including:
- chondroitin-4-sulfate
- dermatan sulfate
- chondroitin-6-sulfate
- heparin & heparin sulfate
- keratan sulfate
- hyaluronic acid
- proteoglan
For formation of joint fluids, there must be the the precursor GAG's available, including:
- Glucosamine sulfate
- Glucosamine HCl
- N-acetyl-D-glucosamine
All are formed from D-glucose; the rate-limiting step (most important step) is the conversion of D-glucose to D-glucosamine
Why Glucosamine sulfate works so well:
- Active uptake through intestine
- Sulfur group supports the formation of Gags
- Decrease the pain of arthritis
- Improve joint function
Consider Glucosamine Sulfate for:
- Degenerative joint disease
- Inflammatory bowel disease
- Chronic colitis (N-acetyl-D-Glucosamine maybe best-supports glycoprotein-mucous membrane of gut lining)
- Disc disease
- Food allergies (see #3, colitis)
Glandular Thyroid
- Bovine thyroid with active thyroid hormone was used
- Thyroid glandulars may provide nutrients needed by the thyroid gland
- May provide "oral tolerance" thus sparing the thyroid gland
- Will provide a low but significant dose of thyroxine
- Less negative feedback inhibition of thyroid gland
- Smaller fluctuations in T-4 throughout the day
There are a number of thyroid glandular products on the market, some with active thyroid hormone and some without. If the dog is receiving levothyroxine (synthetic thyroid, Synthroid, Soloxine), only glandulars with no active thyroid should be used.
Dimethylglycine (DMG, N,N-Dimethyglycine)
- The dimethylated derivative of glycine
- An intermediary metabolite in cell metabolism
- Transmethylation
- Methyl groups are moved from one molecule to another
- DMG is required for this process
- Vitamins, hormones, neurotransmiters, enzymes, antibodies, and nucleic acids all require transmethylation
DMG is:
- Synthesized in the body
- Thus, not a vitamin
- Still, there are indications that supplementation can increase the health of cells and be beneficial in a wide variety of disease processes
- DMG readily crosses the blood brain barrier
- Increase methyl group transfer with neurons, thus improving brain function
Hypothyroid Conditions in Dogs
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
Hypothyroidism implies that there are lower than normal levels of thyroid hormone. This condition is most common in dogs. It is also seen in cats (very rarely) and birds (also rare).
Hypothyroidism is not a specific or well defined disease. It is more accurate to call this disorder a syndrome. A disease has a specific cause and a predictable progression of symptoms. A syndrome is a collection of similar signs of illness, usually having many different underlying causes (some or all of which are unknown), and the progression of signs or symptoms are variable and much less predictable. Hypothyroidism therefore is a syndrome because it has many causes and the progressions of disorders that develop are quite variable. The single common factor is that thyroid gland function is less that optimal OR the various steps in the conversion of thyroid precursor hormones is subnormal OR that their utilization is less than optimal.
For Hypthyroid dogs consider:
- Hypothyroid Chinese Herbal Support, WellVet.Com
- Thyroid Glandular, 2 grain
- Iodine and Tyrosine
- Six Flavored Teapills
Western Medicine and Hypothyroidism
Conventional Western veterinary medicine recognizes that hypothyroidism is a syndrome. There are many causes that lead to a lack of enough thyroid hormone. Perhaps the most common cause of hypothyroidism is due to the development of a condition called "autoimmune thyroiditis." An autoimmune reaction is triggered for unknown reasons. This leads to inflammation and progressive deterioration of thyroid function.
Potential factors leading to autoimmune thyroiditis:
- Genetic predisposition
- Environmental toxins
- Malnutrition (commercial diets probably play a significant role here)
- Excessive Vaccinations
Some Signs Common in Hypothyroid Dogs:
- Lethargic
- Over weight
- Secondary skin diseases including allergies and skin infections
- Hair loss, lack of luster to the coat, color changes to the coat
- Heat seeking, lack of tolerance for the cold
- Behavioral changes, including fear, aggression, apprehension
- Heat cycle abnormalities
- Slow heart beat and decreased metabolic rate
- Rarely seizures, dementia, and stroke
- Laryngeal paralysis
- Neurological diseases (partial paralysis, senility)
Diagnosis of Hypothyroidism
It is quite hard to decide if a dog is hypothyroid. There are many different tests available to the veterinarian; however their interpretation can be very confusing. Dogs are often misdiagnosed and inappropriately place on thyroid hormone.
The most common test to run is a blood test called "T4". Although inexpensive, this test is too inaccurate to rely on in most cases. In fact, all the tests available are very difficult to interpret. Endocrinologists usually recommend that almost all of the tests be used together. Even when employing all the available tests, the correct diagnosis remains elusive.
Often, the diagnosis rests on the clinical impression, or opinion, of the veterinarian. Many doctors will place suspected hypothyroid dogs on synthetic thyroid hormone (levothyroxine) to evaluate the dog's response to therapy. Synthetic thyroid hormone is a stimulant, so most dogs will look and act more vibrant and alert when placed on thyroid hormone, making many caretakers believe their dog is doing better. Unfortunately this stimulant effect comes at a severe price for a dog that is not thyroid deficient: as it creates an abnormally high metabolic rate. This effect will burn up the body's vital resources, leading to rapid aging and the development of other disorders, not unlike what happens to a person taking "uppers".
Conventional Western Therapy for Hypothyroidism
Although there are a number of causes and symptoms of dogs with hypothyroidism, the primary method of treating this disorder is to use synthetic thyroid hormone, called levothyroxine (some brand names include Soloxine and Synthroid).
Levothyroxine is a very potent drug, and it certainly is needed in many patients. Its benefits and problems include:
- Powerful enough to have a positive effect in increasing thyroid blood levels in almost all patients
- Can be life-saving in severely hypothyroid dogs
- Can partially reverse some of the worst disorders that occur in some hypothyroid dogs
- Given twice daily; thyroid blood levels will tend to rise and drop twice daily, meaning the body has highly variable levels of thyroid hormone throughout the day. Naturally the body's thyroid gland secretes small amounts of hormone which maintains consistent thyroid levels and can increase the amount secreted to meet minute by minute demands required by basic metabolic processes. With supplementation, there can be no consistency of blood levels and "on demand" increases. Instead, at times, the body has excessive amounts of hormone while at other times, the thyroid levels are to low.
- The primary role of thyroid hormone is to regulate the body's metabolic rate, so at times the body is running to fast or hot and at times it is running too slow or cold.
- Levothyroxine will produce a powerful negative feedback to the thyroid gland, eventually shutting off natural thyroid hormone production completely
- This negative feedback tends to atrophy the thyroid gland. Over time, when a dog is placed on levothyroxine (even a dog that has normal thyroid function), the thyroid gland becomes unable to function normally.
Complementary and Alternative Therapies for Hypothyroidism
From the above discussion, one can see that the decision to place a dog on thyroid replacement hormonal therapy should be carefully considered. The thyroid gland is seldom completely inactive in hypothyroid dogs. It is usefully to understand that the thyroid gland has a variable and progressive lessening of its ability to produce thyroid hormone. Since most dogs do have a functional thyroid gland, it is a reasonable idea to see what can be done to support normal thyroid function before instituting thyroid hormone replacement therapy. Since natural thyroid hormone is far better for the body, it is helpful to nurture the thyroid gland, encouraging it to function as normally as possible for as long as possible. Since synthetic thyroid hormone has the opposite result, that being a worsening of normal glandular functions, it is helpful to use therapies that nurture or promote healthy thyroid glandular activity. This encourages the thyroid gland to more closely and accurately produce the exact levels of thyroid hormone needed throughout the day.
In earlier stages of hypothyroidism these therapies alone are all that is needed. In more advanced cases, where synthetic thyroid hormone is needed, supplementation with therapies that nurture the thyroid gland will still help your dog regulate its thyroid gland.
Kidney Disease in Cats
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
Kidney disease is a very serious disease, and perhaps the most common serious disorder your cat may develop.
Any cat that is suspected of having kidney disease should be seen by a local veterinarian.
Since kidney disease is so common, it is reasonable to ask why so many cats develop this disorder. Although no one knows for sure, we believe the causes include:
- Diets
Commercial dry food diets seem to produce kidney disease, and they certainly produce cystitis
Cats are 100% carnivores by nature and commercial diets often provide 50-60% of the calories as grains. This alters a cat's normal metabolic processes, changes the cat's pH (acid/base) balance, and creates obesity
Meat-based diets prevent the development and retard the progression of kidney disease
We believe that cats fed all-meat diets do not develop as much kidney disease as those fed commercial diets.Meat based diets must be balanced; see our information on how to feed your cat. - Excessive vaccinations
This has not been completely proven, but we do know that vaccines can cause autoimmune diseases. We also know that autoimmune disease can cause a problem in the kidneys called glomerulonephritis. See our recommendations for vaccinations in cats.
- Hereditary/Genetic
- People that breed cats are rarely motivated by a view toward long-term health and vitality. Over time, poor breeding always develops weaknesses. Kidney disease is a good example
- Other Concurrent DiseasesOther conditions, especially Hyperthyroidism (excess thyroid hormone) will commonly lead to kidney disease
Diagnosis of Kidney Disease
Symptoms of advanced kidney disease include:
- Increased thirst
- Weight loss
- Increased urination
- More frequent trips to the litterbox and an increased amount of urine found in the litterbox
- Dehydration
- Breaking house training (the kidneys produce more urine and some cats find themselves too far away from the litter box when they need to urinate)
- Some cats produce so much urine that it either leaks out, which is called incontinence, or they need to urinate so badly they decide to go in a place more convenient than the litter pan (they get "caught away" from the litterbox when they suddenly really need to urinate)
Unfortunately, these signs of kidney disease are fairly late in the progression of the disorder. What would be helpful is to have methods that detect kidney disease in its earliest stages. However, it is hard to diagnose kidney disease in its earliest stages.
The kidneys need to lose at least 70% of their tissue before the normal tests we run in Western veterinary medicine will show any disorder.
We believe that there are other diagnostic methods that may show kidney weakness at an earlier stage, including:
- Traditional Chinese Medical Tongue and Pulse Diagnosis
Chinese medicine has used tongue and pulse diagnosis for a very long time to detect dysfunction of organs before they become damaged to the point of failure.
- Energetic Tests
Although there is no proof, many holistic doctors believe they can use techniques such as Applied Kinesiology and Nogier Pulse Diagnosis to help determine the body's weaknesses before organs fail. - Urine Albumin testWhen the kidneys are beginning to fail, they often start leaking albumin. There are new tests available now that detect minute amounts of albumin in the urine. These tests may be much more predictive of kidney disease earlier than the other Western Veterinary medical tests that are routinely performed.
Treatment for Kidney Disease
Acupuncture
Acupuncture is remarkable in its ability to slow the progression of kidney disease and help return a sick cat to a more normal life.
Diet
Western medicine will routinely place cats on low protein diets at the first signs of kidney disease. This is not necessary (the experts at the universities agree) and actually is very harmful. With kidney disease, there are both increased loss of proteins and increased need for them due to the need to rebuild cells throughout the body that have been damaged by the kidney disease. For a specific recommendation for your cat, we would need particulars on your cat's condition.
Herbal and Nutraceutical Medicine
Chinese and Western herbal medicine plays a key role in treating kidney disease. See below for general recommendations or call for a phone consult for specific recommendations for your companion animal.
Some general recommendations for kidney support include:
- Kidney Glandulars
Kidney glandulars provide many of the needed nutrients to support healthy kidney function, and may help slow the loss of healthy kidney tissues. Glandulars may work in part by a theory called "Oral Tolerance", where the body decreases the damage it inflicts on the kidneys (a common event with kidney disease) due to a mechanism of desensitization similar to that employed with allergy desensitization shots. - Vitamin ALack of adequate levels of Vitamin A will produce squamous metaplasia, causing permanent damage to the kidneys. A deficiency of Vitamin A will promote the formation of calcium oxalate kidney stones. Vitamin A will also nurture tubular lining cells and boost the immune response, thus decreasing the incidence of low grade pyelonephritis.
- Vitamin EA powerful free-radical scavenger, Vitamin E will help stabilize the membranes of kidney cells. Its immune boosting function will help eliminate pyelonephritis. Vitamin E has value for every epithelial tissue, so would be of benefit in kidney disease. However, it would not be considered a primary mode of therapy for kidney disease.
- Vitamin B Complex
B vitamins are water-soluble and will be flushed out of the body at a more rapid rate due to the increased water loss seen with kidney disease. Their supplementation is required, either in the diet or as a nutritional supplement. - Zinc
Some forms of kidney disease have low-grade infections as secondary or primary causes. Zinc acts as an immune stimulant, for chronic low-grade bacterial pyelonephritis. It inhibits crystallization, lowering the incidence of kidney stones. - Dandelion
Dandelion is a potent diuretic that will increase the glomerular filtration rate, while sparing the potassium depletion seen with most pharmaceutical diuretics. It is considered a kidney tonic as well. - Parsley
Parsley, Petroselinum crispun, is a potent kidney tonic and diuretic. It has antibiotic properties, making it effective in the treatment of low-grade pyelonephritis conditions.
Leaky Gut Syndrome and Inflammatory Bowel DIsease
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
Leaky Gut Syndrome is a condition in which food allergies cause intestinal permeability defects, chronic diarrhea, food sensitivity and generalized allergies.
If your dog, cat or bird has symptoms, we recommend a phone consult. Dr. McCluggage has lectured widely on this topic and treated many cases of chronic diarrhea and intestinal permeability defects with good success.
Until this article is complete, please refer to our articles on chronic diarrhea for more information. For diarrhea in dogs, click here. For diarrhea in cats, click here. Also, look in the "Products" page, (click here) under products for diarrhea.
General Products to help your animal with Leaky Gut syndrome (increased intestinal permeability) include:
- GI-Revive
- UltraClear Plus (perhaps the single best product)
- Paraguard
- Multi-Probiotic 40 Billion
- OmegaGenics EPA-DHA 500
Licorice to Obesity
Licorice and Deglycrrhizinated Licorice (DGL)
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
Licorice is an herb that is commonly used by both western herbologists and Traditional Chinese Medicine practitioners. It is likely that licorice is the most common herb used in Botanical medicine.
It has many effects in the body, one of the most important being its powerful anti-inflammatory action which seems to be somewhat similar to cortisol.
Licorice has adrenal gland actions (it is called a glucocorticosteroid and a mineralocorticosteroid effect). These actions can be very powerful and beneficial in healing patients. Some of these effects include:
- Licorice seems to enhance desoxycorticosterone, a hormone that affects sodium levels in the body
- This causes retention of sodium and water
- Excretion of potassium from the body
- Licorice will keep the circulating levels of cortisol in the blood steam longer than normal, thus elevating cortisol levels and producing an antiinflammatory effect
- This effect is dose related, so one can use appropriate dosages with little risk
- Excessive use can lead to a weaknesses in the adrenal gland (called the adrenocortical axis)
- This can produce edema (fluid retention)
- The mineral/adrenal effects are most common in women
- Licorice can be used in women, but with some caution
- This sensitivity probably does not extend to spayed dogs and cats
Deglycyrrhizinated (DGL) licorice is a nutraceutical extract of licorice. DGL does not have any of the adrenal gland effects associated with licorice. DGL restores the intestinal lining. It is good for ulcers, stomatitis and inflammatory bowel disease. DGL increases the quantity and quality of mucin, increases the life span of intestinal cells, improves mucosal blood flow and has a prostaglandin-like effect on cytoprotection.
DGL is often used for:
- Stomach Ulcers
- Stomach Inflammation
- Chronically Vomiting Animals
- Inflammatory Bowel Disease
- Chronic small intestinal Diarrhea
When To use DGL and when to use Licorice?
The whole licorice herb has an adrenal cortical action, as previously mentioned, which may be beneficial in specific situations. Because of this "cortisol-like" effect, it has powerful anti-inflammatory effects that can be very helpful when needed. It should be used in those situations. If you want to have the intestinal protective and mucosal soothing effects on the stomach, then you should consider DGL as it is slightly safer. Ultimately, this is a very hard decision with some cases, and a phone consultation would be appropriate.
Litter Box Action Plan
Rhea Dodd, D.V.M. MA, CVA
Morrison, Colorado (303) 919-1504
If allowed to choose, most cats will naturally pick clean, sandy litter, lots of space, privacy and quiet, no odors (stinky or fragrant), little competition from other cats, and a low stress environment. If your cat is healthy, the next step is to change the environment.
The doctor has diagnosed your cat with a:
- Surface Preference For Carpet/(Other)
- Litter Type Aversion
- Location Preference
- Litter Box Aversion
- Other
To help create a more naturally attractive and enticing litterbox, please do
the following:
- Increase the number of boxes to one more than the number of cats.
- If you use a covered box, get an uncovered one; if you use an uncovered box, get a covered one.
- Get an extra large box or use an under-bed storage box.
- Do not use plastic liners.
- Use only UNSCENTED, fine clumping (scoopable) type litter, 2-3 inches deep.
- Create a gradient from shallow to deep.
- Scoop once or twice daily.
- Add litter as needed to keep depth at 2-3 inches.
- Dump contents when "crumbs" of broken up urine clumps are visible, there is a noticeable odor, or about once a month.
- Clean only with a mild soap, such as Ivory liquid; rinse and dry well.
Also:
Place the new boxes where the cat is inappropriately eliminating. Once litter box habits are well established, move box 1-2" a day to a more appropriate location.
Clean soiled areas very thoroughly with "Anti-Icky Poo" (silly name, great product!) or "Nature's Miracle" [or other enzyme product] according to package directions. Very soiled areas may require professional cleaning, carpet replacement, or sealing.
Cover soiled areas with heavy plastic, carpet runners or foil.
Place food and water or toys in the same area.
Place lemon scented glycerin soap bars or lemon scented air deodorizer in the same area, but not so close to the new litter box that it will discourage use.
Place a small square of carpet, bath mat, old T-shirt, fine wedding veil netting, synthetic fleece or hand towel in the empty litter box.
Gradually replace it with smaller squares of fabric, while simultaneously adding increasing amounts of litter.
Use an empty litter box, sprinkled with a small amount of litter.
If feasible, simply restrict cat's access to soiled area or preferred surface (e.g. keep bedroom door closed, keep laundry picked up, put 1/2 inch of water in bathtub).
DO NOT punish or scold a cat. It is not effective in correcting soiling problems and may lead to increased stress and further problems.
Correction of litterbox problems is not simple. It takes time, a financial investment, patience, and perseverance. We empathize, and are here to support you. We know if your cat could, he would thank you for having a big heart.
Note: Dr. Dodd is available for phone consults on behavioral problems, please contact her at the above phone number.
Medicinal Mushrooms: Immune Boosters
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
The Japanese, Chinese, and others have used medicinal mushrooms for centuries. Two good examples are the mushrooms Shiitake and Reishi (Ganoderma).
There are actually dozens of medicinal mushrooms, all possessing some similar characteristics, such as immune enhancement. In addition, each also has its own unique properties. Ganoderma has been shown to regulate immune functions and coronary cerebral blood flow, reduce blood lipid levels, protect the liver from toxicosis and treat liver disease. Shiitake is used to treat cancer. Tremella contains tumor and ulcer inhibiting polysaccharide. Uses might include cancer therapy, following illness to boost strength, and following injury.
Medicinal mushrooms seem to be one of the best methods for long-term immune stimulation.
One can give only one mushroom if you understand which one is best. What is more common is to give a combination of several mushrooms. Neither approach is necessarily better, as it always depends on the animal's condition.
A variety of different medicinal mushrooms are available in combination products, including:
Miatake
- Especially beneficial for cancer therapy
- Shown to help fight cancer
- Particularly beneficial in countering the side effects of cancer chemotherapy
- Has complex mucopolysaccharides that are nonspecific immune boosters.
Shiitake
- Anti-tumor activity
- Antiviral action
- Reduces bronchial inflammation
Ganoderma (Reishi)
- Improves cellular immunity
- Has antifibrotic or scar decreasing properties, making it beneficial for liver cirrhosis among other disorders
- Shown to reduce
- Aspartate transaminase (AST)
- Alanine transaminase (ALT)
- Alkaline phosphatase (ALP)
- Total bilirubin
- Collagen content
Tremella fuciformis
- Enhances cellular and humoral immunity
- Increases interleuken-2
- Protects against some of the negative effects of radiation therapy
- Is a live protectant (hepatoprotective)
- Anticancer
- Increases the effectiveness of interferon (antiviral)
Cordyceps sinensis
- Enhances red blood cells (erythroid progenitor cells and erythroid colony-forming units in the bone marrow)
- Immune stimulation and immune regulation effects
- Stimulates phagocytic function and macrophage activity
- Thus it is beneficial in cleaning up diseased tissues and restoring health
- Anticancer effects
- Shown to lengthen the life of lymphoma patients
- Counters some of the negative effects of cyclophosphamide (a powerful cancer chemotherapy drug)
- Seems to be most effective in treating cellular immunity
Megacolon
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
Megacolon is a serious disease in older cats. The large intestine becomes dilated and flacid, the passing of stools becomes sluggish, and your cat becomes constipated. Eventually your cat can no longer pass stools, which is, of course, life threatening.
Drug therapy includes the use of Cisapride, a drug that forces the large intestinal muscles to contract harder. This can help pass stools, but over time, this drug will cause more dilation and flacidity of the colon, speading up the disease process.
Before Cisapride is used, we recommend a number of other therapies.
- Acupuncture and manual therapy (chiropractic adjustments)are often remarkably helpful.
- Diet modification: feed your cat a raw food diet, or at least a home cooked diet consisting mostly of meat. These diets will produce far less stool, and the colon has far less effort in passing the stool.
- Supplements:
Appricot Seed and Linum, a Chinese herbal product
Colon Formula, a nutraceutical and herbal supplement that contains herbs to gently encourage the colon to pass stool
Digestive enzyme support, try Similase (Integrative Therapeutics)
Add fiber to the diet, consider MetaFiber (Metagenics)
- Low Level Laser Therapy
- Homeopathy
- Cats with severe constipation and megacolon might benefit from a combined diet and supplement approach that we can offer during a Phone Consult.
Milk Thistle
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
Silybum marianum (milk thistle) is a flavonoid having an affinity for the liver. Its hepatoprotective and hepatorestorative effects makes silymarin one of the best nutraceutical for many liver disorders. It is primarily used to regenerate hepatocytes, where it improves the flow of bile and fat to and from the liver as well as heal liver cells. Less known, but of equal value, is that it is also an excellent antioxidant. Its antioxidant properties make it valuable in a wide variety of degenerative diseases.
Active ingredients:
The major active ingredient is considered to be the flavonolignan , silybin , a lipid soluble, poorly absorbed compound. Betaine, which has been shown to be a liver protectant, is also found in the plant. There are other flavonolignans in milk thistle, but they appear less significant. Perhaps of more importance are the essential oils and trace minerals found in the herb.
Modes of Action:
As an antioxidant, silymarin inhibits benzoyl peroxide-induced tumor promotion, oxidative stress and inhibits the inflammatory responses with certain types of tumors. Silymarin increases the biliary excretion and the endogenous pool of bile salts by stimulating the synthesis of hepatoprotective bile salts, such as beta- muricholate and ursodeoxycholate.
It enhances Phase II and inhibits Phase I liver detoxification, which can effectively balance detoxification since the by-products of Phase I detoxification are often more toxic than the original products from which they are produced.
Phase I detoxification, the Cytrochrome P450 enzymes, often produce free radicals which must be removed by Phase II detoxification. Silymarin, allowing for greater conjugation of these free radicals, enhances Glucuronic acid, a part of Phase II detoxification. Once conjugated they can be removed from the body through the bile ducts.
Silymarin has been shown to lower elevated levels of bilirubin, aspartate aminotransferase (AST), and alanine amino-transferase (ALT). In part this is due to its ability to stimulate the production of heplatocellular proteins.
Adding to the long list of beneficial effects of this nutraceutical is its anti-lipid peroxidation effect. Silymarin will inhibit the formation of leukotrienes from polyunsaturated fatty acids in the liver, via its inhibition of the enzyme lipoxygenase, stabilized mast cells, modulated immune functions, and is anti-inflammatory.
The anti- iflammatory effect of silymarin is significant, and has been proven in studies. This allows the practitioner to elect not to use Western antiinflammatories such as prednisone.
Amanita Mushroom Poisoning
Some species of Amanita mushrooms have powerful hepatotoxins, including amanitin and phalloidin. Milk thistle has gained much recognition in its ability to reducing death rates from exposure to Amanita mushrooms up to 100%. Liver enzyme studies and liver biopsies in studies involving dogs shows a significant hepatoprotective effect for silymarin when given toxic doses of Amanita mushrooms.
Other Clinical Uses
Silymarin has been shown to be of some benefit is treatment of liver disease in alcoholics, although it is not as effective as one might expect.
Silymarin is very helpful in the treatment of liver cirrhosis. One study is indicative of this beneficial aspect of the herb. This study, involving 170 patients with liver cirrhosis, were given 420 mg/day of silymarin for an average of 41 months. These patients showed a significant improvement in survival (58% in silymarin-treated patients and 39% in the placebo group).
In Western medicine, colchicine is often used to inhibit liver fibrosis. This is, however, of questionable value, especially when considering the potential toxicity of colchicine.
In one study the use of silymarin was as effective as colchicine in the treatment of liver disease, and had none of the untoward effects exhibited with colchicine. Silymarin also inhibits fibrosis in lung tissue, kidney tissue, pancreas and other organs throughout the body.
Being a powerful Antioxidant, it can help improve many degenerative conditions throughout the body, including kidney disease, heart disease, and diabetes. Silymarin is found throughout the entire plant, but is concentrated in the fruit and seeds. Since the seeds have a high content of silymarin, it is an excellent seed to feed birds that have liver disease.
If used in too high a dose, it can cause a loose stool due to the increase in bile it produces.
Obesity and Weight Loss Programs
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
Diet dog and cat foods are rarely successful. In fact, they MAKE your companion animal want to eat more because they have such poor nutrition that their bodies feel starved for good food.
The key to a good weight loss program is to increase the quality of the diet, feed higher amounts of meats (increase the proteins), lower carbohydrates, and simply feed less at each meal. Diet dog, cat, and bird foods do just the opposite: they lower the quality of the diet and the animal slowly deteriorates because of the poorer nutrition.
These diet foods all are designed to decrease calories while increasing indigestible material. One example of a product that is used to add bulk but no calories is peanut hulls. The flawed concept is to make the animal feel fuller after a meal, but not have so many calories per cup of food.
The reason this is flawed is that all animals are driven to eat, not by a feeling of emptiness in the stomach, but by a desire to meet their caloric needs. They are driven to eat by a sense of a lack of calories, not a sense of less food in their stomach. Those of us who have dieted know that the first couple weeks are usually the easiest time to eat less. Then we start having more trouble staying on the diet. Why? The body begins to feel the lack of calories and starts urging us to eat more.
This is also true of animals, they start becoming more persistent in asking us for more food as they start losing weight. The result is that we often start giving them treats between meals, feeding more in the food bowel. Worst of all is the idea that we can feed our obese animals free choice and expect them to lose weight by just moving to a diet dog or cat food. The result of all of this? Our companions just eat more food that is of a poorer quality, leading to malnutrition and disease.
Study after study has shown that diet dog and cat foods never are successful. Animals just don't lose weight on them. The one exception: the caretaker that is willing to limit how much food they feed their dogs and cats.
The basic tenant in a healthy diet plan for people is that we should all eat healthy, freshly prepared foods, adding variety and all the valuable nutrients we need to stay healthy.... but that we should learn to simply eat less. The same is true of animals. The best "diet" plan is simply feeding an excellent diet in the correct portions.
Diet dog foods do just the opposite of this: they provide a poorer quality of nutrition. In our experience, dogs develop unthrifty, dull, and dry looking coats and eventually develop diseases while on diet dog foods. And, they never lose any weight!
Ultimately, the diet dog foods are aimed at the animal caretaker's desire to make their companion happy, and are not made to benefit the animal. We all want to make our companions as happy as possible. We all gain great satisfaction by knowing they are content. One way is to feed a bowl of food that looks like a lot of food. We feel better knowing that our animals get this nice big looking meal once or twice daily.
As we have seen, this is actually the opposite from what we want to do: we want to feed a higher quality diet, and feed much less in the bowl. Your companion animal will feel better for this. They will be healthier and they will feel MORE satisfied with the meal because of the high quality of the food they are eating. And they will feel years younger when they lose the excess weight.
So, here are our diet plans in brief:
- Feed a high protein diet; increase the meats and use fresh meats, not meat from a can
- Lower the carbohydrates in the diet, this will also help prevent diabetes and intestinal disease
- Feed moderate amounts of vegetables
- Follow our guidelines for feeding dogs, birds and cats, just feed less of all that we recommend (again, increase the proteins and decrease the carbohydrates and fats); go to these pages:
- Feeding Your Bird, click here
- Feeding Your Dog, click here
- Feeding Your Cat, click here
- Stop feeding table scraps, treats and tidbits between meals
- Weigh your companion every two weeks to see if weight is being lost
- If there has been no weight loss, reduce the amount you are feeding by 25%, and check again in another two weeks
- You don't need for them to lose a lot of weight each week, just a slow steady diet will get them back to where they need to be in 6-12 months
- Feed a good quality multi-nutritional supplement.
- EXERCISE: we can't over estimate the need for exercise to help the weight loss program. Start walking your dog for 15 minutes daily and move to 1 hour daily. Cats are much harder to exercise, of course, but playing with them daily will help tremendously.
Oxilate Stone Diet to Vomiting
Oxilate Stone Diet
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
Bladder and especially kidney stones are very serious. You should always have your companion animal seen by your local veterinarian if you suspect bladder or kidney stones. In addition, WellVet.com believes that this is an excellent example of where complementary medicine can offer a great deal of support. Traditional Chinese Medicine seems especially helpful, as does homeopathy.
You will find examples of products that might be beneficial for your animal listed in our supplements. However, the exact herbs and supplements will vary by the case. You may wish to individualize therapy for your animal. For phone consult information, please call our office.
The "classic" oxalate-preventing diet is essentially a vegetarian diet, filled with low or moderate oxalate containing foods. At WellVet.com, we believe that only animals that have repeatedly produced oxalate stones, or animals that are strongly genetically predisposed to oxalate stones, should be on a diet devoid of meat. Many animals that develop oxalate stones have been previously placed on diets that artificially lower (acidify) the body's pH because of a prior incident of cystitis (for example, cats with FLUTD also called FUS).
We believe that vegetarian diets will lead to other problems, and that stones can be prevented with moderate amounts of meat, limiting foods that produce oxalates and calcium, and increasing the amount of magnesium in the diet. Magnesium helps stop oxalate stones from developing - even when the pH is incorrect and the calcium levels are excessive. Vitamin D should also be restricted to minimal amounts, as Vitamin D will tend to produce calcium deposits throughout the body, including the kidneys. Even marginally excessive levels of Vitamin D, in animals that tend to produce oxalate stones, can lead to more oxalate crystals that can form into stones in the kidney and bladder.
Vitamin C should not be supplemented in the diet for these animals, as it can be converted to oxalates in the kidneys. Vitamin C will also produce more acidity in the urine, also producing more problems.
Testing Urine For Alkalinity
To help prevent oxalate stones, we need to keep the urine pH more alkaline. Urine should be tested for its acidity or alkalinity using a test called "pH." A pH test showing 7.0 (neutral) or higher (above 7.0 means the urine is more alkaline) is the goal. Your companion animal should have urine pH tests done routinely. We recommend acquiring litmus paper strips and testing the urine yourself frequently. You can buy pH test paper at your local pharmacist.
Adding aluminum free baking soda to the diet at about 1/16-1/4 teaspoon per meal, well mixed into the meal, will often keep the pH in the neutral to alkaline range.
How To Make The Diet
All portions are in a rough volume percent of the total amount fed. This allows for variation by size without worrying about cups, teaspoons, and other measuring devices. Portions can be made up daily and added together at mealtime. Be sure to allow the meal to cool sufficiently before serving.
- 25% (30% in cats) of each meal should be meat. The type of meat should be varied from time to time, such as:
Fish - Fresh Tuna (not canned) is excellent, but any fresh or fresh- frozen fillet is good, including Salmon
Turkey - boneless
The meats should be cooked just before being fed, and the portion will need to equal 25-30% of the total amount of food in the bowl. Cook the meat to a medium point, but do not overcook. While cooking, add extra water. Stir enough of this extra water into the meal once all ingredients have been added to make a stew-like consistency.
- 20% of the meal should be a carbohydrate
Oatmeal or wheat
Beans
White long grain rice
These should be cooked fairly well, but not "mushy". There are valuable minerals, including magnesium, in the skin, so the entire potato is fed, including the skin. The beans and rice can be cooked several days ahead of time and used as each meal is prepared. Beans (legumes) should be cooked fresh, not from canned beans. Canned beans will have higher levels of potentially toxic minerals such as zinc. You can prepare the beans by buying dried beans, soaking them overnight, then cooking them for about 30-45 minutes at a gentle rolling boil (cook until soft, but not falling apart).
- 50% the diet should be varied, almost daily, and include:
Eggs - no more than once a week; remove the shell
Carrots - can be fed raw or cooked, but leave the peel
Peas
Green beans
Tofu
Squash (cooked)
- 5% of the diet should be cottage cheese, which provides a moderate but essential amount of calcium. NO other dairy products should be added, as they will increase the calcium level too much.
- To each meal add:
One high-quality multivitamin per meal. We recommend: Rx Essentials for Dogs or Rx Essentials for Cats
1/2 to 3 capsules of a magnesium citramate supplement. Cats and small dogs should be given 1/2 capsule. Increase a dog's dose based on size, where the largest of dogs would get 3 capsules per meal.
A small pinch of table salt or sodium chloride. Do NOT use iodine- supplemented salt.
1/4 to 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Again, cats and small dogs receive the smallest dose, and the largest dogs the maximum dose
- For Cats, in addition, add:
Taurine to the diet to prevent heart disease
WellVet.com also recommends appropriate Chinese herbal formulas. One we commonly recommend to our clients is called Lysimmachia 3 combined with Six Flavored Teapills
To optimize your animal's treatment plan, consider calling for a phone consult.
Pannus
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
Pannus is also called German Shepherd Pannus, but other breeds will also develop the same eye changes (these breeds include Collie, Poodle, Dachshund, Greyhound, mixed breeds). It is a serious disease that can lead to blindness.
The cornea is the outer, clear, portion of the eye. Normally, the cornea has no blood vessels, no pigmentation, and should be smooth and convex shaped.
Pannus is a disorder that affects the cornea of the eye. It is not painful, causes no eye discharge in its early stages and, most concerning, it is insidiously progressive. It is thought to be an autoimmune disorder, worsened by exposure to ultraviolet radiation (sunlight).
For reasons unknown, the body's own immune system reacts to the cornea producing neovascularity (blood vessels grow onto the cornea), pigment deposition into the cornea and eventually enough scar tissue to completely block all vision.
It is considered by many to be a disease that can not be cured and even with continual treatment can lead to blindness in many of the affected dogs.
Traditional Western therapy for Pannus includes the use of eye drops or ointments containing steroids (prednisone, dexamethasone) and/or cyclosporine ointments. In the most advanced cases, surgery is performed to remove the outer layers of the cornea, allowing for some vision to return.
In our experience, when seen early enough some cases are curable and many more easily maintained so that your dog never goes blind. If seen early, I suspect we can either cure or provide excellent life-long palliation in 90% of the cases.
What Causes Pannus from a Holistic View
From a Traditional Chinese Medical perspective, these animals are Yin deficient and often Blood deficient.
I have the most success with Chinese herbal remedies, combined with nutraceuticals.
My favorite formula is Ming Mu Di Huang Wan. I also have good success with Qi Ju Di Huang Wan (Lycii, Chrysanthemum and Rehmannia Teapills). One of these formulas forms the basis of therapy.
I then will often add Reconciling Tablets, a formula that treats autoimmune diseases.
A few cases seem to respond well when I add Tang Kwei; some seemed to need Aloe vera (using a fresh plant, not any extract).
All are placed on diets rich in carotinoids (usually sweet potato, kale, etc.), along with my typical diet recommendations.
Acupuncture seems to help all cases (don't rely on the GB, ST, BL eye points; use points for Blood (ST 36), Yin (CV 4, LU 7), and Spleen Qi (SP 3). Of course the point selection always varies by the animal, most have other issues that need addressing.
Environment is critical, especially early on, meaning they must be kept out of the sun until the Yin is replenished.
I always work with constitutional homeopathy as time goes by, and how much that helps is always hard to say. Homeopathy is powerful but slow to act in chronic miasms making it hard at times to know what good I do with it. There is a wealth of rubrics to look in, and the entire Repertorium Generale is needed to select the appropriate remedy.
To prevent permanent corneal changes, steroid eye drops are used at the start, but these are usually stopped after a while. I used to think the dogs always needed ocular steroids, but found out that over time people stopped using the eye treatments because it was inconvenient and things went along just fine. And, I used to think I needed to keep up some therapy or another, but again I kept seeing dogs 2-3 years later doing well with no therapy... same reason, the owners just stopped everything on their own. Again, the eyes stayed normal.
The most frustrating aspect of Pannus is that I see far too many cases when they have been on steroids and cyclosporine for years and the eyes are now a mess. Those cases are not curable, not easily treated, and at best only suppressed.. meaning they need to stay on steroids and I can barely arrest the advancement of the corneal dystrophy.
Therapies to consider:
- Ming Mu Di Huang Wan
- Omegagenics 500
- Reconciling Tabs
- Small Animal Antioxidants
- Megaflex Custom
- Immuplex
Struvite Stone Diet
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
Bladder and especially kidney stones are very serious. They can be very hard to treat and eliminate. This diet plan can help our animal with this issue, but you should always continue to work with your local veterinarian.
Traditional Chinese Medicine also seems especially helpful, as does homeopathy. Recommended herbs and supplements will vary by case, and the products listed below are included as guidelines only. Other products may be better indicated to help heal your animal.
Portions can be made up daily then added together at mealtime.
All portions are in a rough volume percent of the total amount fed. This allows for variation by size without worrying about cups, teaspoons, and other measuring devices.
- 50% of each meal is meat. The type of meat should be varied from time to time. For example, some meats to include:
Fish
Lean ground beef
Chicken
- The meats should be cooked right before being fed and the portion adjusted to accommodate for the animal's size (equaling 50% of the total amount of food in the bowl). Cook the meat to a medium point. Do not overcook it. While cooking, add extra water. Stir enough of the extra water into the meal once all ingredients have been added to make a stew-like consistency.
- 25% of the meal should be a carbohydrate
Sweet potato
White potato
White rice
These should be cooked fairly well done, and the skin removed, for the first 60 days following the stone removal, or until the stone has been dissolved. The skin has extra minerals that will contribute to the next stone's formation, if one is going to form.
- 25% of the diet should be varied, almost daily, and include:
Eggs
Yogurt
Carrots (peeled early on, as the skin has more minerals that contribute to stone formation. later on the carrot can be fed whole and raw)
Tofu
Beets (cooked)
Squash (cooked)
To the above, at each meal add:
- One high quality multivitamin per meal (consider Rx Vitamins: Rx Essentials for Dogs, and for cats, Rx Vitamins Rx Essentials for Cats).
- 1/2 to 3 capsules of a Calcium Citramate supplement (cats and small dogs get 1/2 capsule; increase the dose for dogs from there based on the dog's size, where the largest of dogs would get 3 capsules per meal.
- A small pinch of a "salt substitute" which is actually potassium chloride
- 1/4 to 2 tablespoons of olive oil or coconut oil (again, cats and small dogs receive the smallest dose and large dogs the maximum dose)
In addition, WellVet.com recommends that the urine is routinely checked to make sure it stays in an acid pH and that a urine culture be performed every 1-3 months for the first year to make sure there is no bacterial cystitis developing.
WellVet.com also recommends our proprietary Chinese herbal formula by Wellvet: Cystitis and Dissolve Crystals Formula.
If the pH does not stay acidic, we recommend adding L-Methionine (not DL-Methionine, the synthetic compound).
Traditional Chinese Medicine and the Liver
David McCluggage, D.V.M., C.V.A.
Specific Patterns of Liver Disease
Stagnated Liver Qi
- Invading the Stomach, causing slow digestion, poor crop emptying, vomiting and nausea
- Invading the Spleen, causing diarrhea
- Invading the Small intestine, causing constipation
- Impaired movement of Blood
- Decreased fertility, causing vaginal and uterine problems, impeded flow of Qi to other organs and the movement of blood, both will negatively affect the function of the "western" immune system
- This will have the potential to lead to chronic infections, especially those of the liver and respiratory system
Liver Fire Blazing Upwards
- From the Invasion of Wind Heat or from Stagnation of Liver Qi
- Produces red swollen eyes ("conjunctivitis")
- Also seen with certain viral infections and chlamydial infections
Stasis of Liver Blood
- Produces infertility in hens
- Can produce vomiting of blood and nose bleeds
- Dries out the nasal and sinus passages, predisposing birds to infectionsLiver Attacking the Stomach
- A variation of Qi Stagnation
- Produces poor digestion and assimilation of nutrients
Liver and Spleen Disharmony
- A Variation of Qi Stagnation
- Poor digestion, diarrhea
Thus Liver Qi Stagnation (produced by many things, but commonly from the stress of a captive life) often produces
- Gastrointestinal disorders
- Poor digestion
- The lack of the free flow of Qi to the body will produce
- Chronic immune deficiencies
- Predisposing animals to the development of infections, allergies, hormonal problems
Eventually Overt Liver Disease Develops
Liver Disease can include a variety of different signs that must be dealt with:
Fluid build-up
Fire Toxins
Cirrhosis
Hepatitis, inflammation
Blood Deficiency
A variety of Traditional Chinese Medical diagnoses, which all need to be treated with the appropriate acupuncture points and herbs
Acupuncture For Liver Disease
- Vary by the pattern of liver disorder, general points include:
- BL 18, BL 19, LIV 3, GV 9, ST 36, GB 35, BL 40, LIV 13, SP 6
Herbal Combinations for Liver Disease
- Vary by the pattern of liver disorder
Vaccine Protocol
We recommend vaccine protocols that are created specifically for each animal. Animals that are living indoors are less likely to need certain vaccines. Animals that have had repeated vaccines are less likely to need certain vaccines. ALL animals that have acute or chronic diseases should not be vaccinated. This includes animals with disorders such as food allergies, skin allergies, chronic bouts of diarrhea, chronic eye and ear infections, and any immune or autoimmune associated disorder.
Do not vaccinate any animal with any acute or chronic disease! Vaccines can cause great harm in sick animals. Even animals with "minor" issues such as diarrhea should never be vaccinated during the illness. No pregnant or lactating bitch should receive vaccinations
NOTE: While this schedule is the one I recommend, there is considerable controversy within this evolving field of vaccinology. Until we have more information, vaccine protocols will remain a matter of professional judgment and choice.
General Vaccine Guidelines For All Animals:
- When possible, give individual vaccines, not combinations (some vaccines only come as combinations, and there is no option to give separately)
- Never give a vaccination while other procedures are being performed, such as dentistries, surgery, grooming and boarding (these situations are already creating stress to the immune system)
- Never vaccinate a sick animal, no matter how mild the illness
- Never vaccinate a pregnant animal
- Do not vaccinate at too young an age as they still have maternal immunity which prevents the vaccine from working
RABIES VACCINE
Rabies vaccine is licensed by the Federal Government to be effective for at least three years. We recommend that you always keep your animal's rabies vaccine current as required by law. In most states, rabies vaccines are required in dogs and cats. The first vaccine should be given after twelve weeks of age and before six months of age. One year after the first rabies vaccine is given, a second rabies vaccine is required. Thereafter, rabies vaccines should be given as required by the laws in the state in which you reside (generally every three years).
CAT VACCINES
Rabies vaccine as required by law
Feline Panleukopenia vaccine (Feline Distemper)
Although somewhat controversial among conventional doctors, a considerable body of evidence has led researchers to believe that feline distemper vaccine, once given as a kitten, provides lifelong protection in almost all cats.
We recommend a series of two shots. The first vaccine is at 8-9 weeks of age, and the second is given at 12-13 weeks of age.
We do not recommend yearly Feline Distemper vaccines. The Association of Feline Practitioners recommends Panleukopenia every three years. For cats in high-risk situations, we recommend a Blood Titer Test to check levels of immunity every three years.
Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV)
Feline Leukemia Vaccine is controversial in that the vaccine is extremely ineffective, especially when compared to the effectiveness of other vaccines. Kittens are at greatest risk, and the best protection you can give a kitten is to keep the kitten indoors for the first year of its life.
The reported vaccine effective rate varies from 0% of vaccinated cats protected to 67%. One of the more interesting studies involving natural infection (as compared to a lab setting) showed no protection.
Feline Leukemia was first recognized as a disease in the late 1970's. It was not around before then. Since then, the incidence of Leukemia in cats has rapidly decreased. Today, the disease can be considered to be rare. What is the reason? Naturally acquired immunity! It is well known that almost all cats that are immune competent (their immune system is working at normal levels) and are over 10 months of age, once exposed to the Feline Leukemia Virus, develop resistance, remove the virus from their body, and become immune to future infection. Since the vaccine has such a poor rate of success, and since natural immunity protects almost all cats, there are few cats with leukemia now, entirely due to natural immunity.
Other than a few instances where the risk of contracting feline leukemia is at a very high level, we do not recommend leukemia vaccines.
The reasons are:
- The vaccine does not protect cats well
- Repeated vaccines do not improve its effectiveness
- The vaccine causes incurable cancers (fibrosarcoma) in roughly 1 in every 2,000 - 5,000 cats
- The vaccine can cause vaccinosis (a homeopathic term that means the animal develops a relatively permanent degradation of their vital health)
- All vaccines can degrade health, so any vaccine is a risk vs. benefit assessment
- Use of the vaccine gives the caretaker a false sense of security, when the caretaker should instead be aware of the more important methods they can employ to protect their cats (keeping the kitten indoors for the first year of life)
DOG VACCINES
- Rabies
Rabies vaccine last for several years, certainly more than the three years it is licensed for. However, you should keep your dogs current with state requirements - Canine Distemper/Parvo Vaccines
For most animals, we recommend vaccinating for the two most serious diseases, Distemper and Parvovirus. Most vaccines come in combinations of several diseases in the same shot. If you select a combination vaccine, we recommend the one with the least number of diseases in the vaccine; that would include Distemper and Parvovirus
9 weeks: MLV Distemper/Parvovirus only
Less than 12 weeks: MLV Distemper/Parvovirus only
16-20 weeks: MLV Distemper/Parvovirus only
- From then on, we do not believe dogs need further Distemper/Parvovirus Vaccines; however, high-risk animals could have titer checked. If a titer ever shows a protective level, these vaccines are certainly good for life; no new titers need be taken.
- We do NOT recommend Bordetella, Corona virus, Leptospirosis or Lyme vaccines. In rare situations, one or more of these vaccines might provide limited benefits.
- Giardia Vaccine
Studies show that their mother and/or the kennel environment have exposed essentially 100% of all dogs to Giardia, almost always from birth.
It makes no sense to use a vaccine when the primary infectious agent has already been seen by the dog's immune system (the Giardia).
Thus, we never use this vaccine
BIRD VACCINES
In short, there are NO vaccines that are appropriate for psittacine (parrot type) birds.
Let's look at the vaccines that are available:
- Polyoma Virus Vaccine
One vaccine that is rarely recommended as a routine vaccine in pet birds is thePolyoma Virus vaccine.
The Myth: In reading about Polyoma virus, some fear-based articles discuss how so many species are susceptible to the disease, and how the number one symptom that your bird might develop is sudden death; they simply look fine one day and die the next with no warning.
What they fail to mention is that these birds that die suddenly are nestlings, or, more rarely, fledglings. By the time they have fledged and developed into young birds suitable to leave the aviary, they are no longer at risk for the virus.
There are a number of other symptoms attributed to this virus, including the nebulous concepts of "chronic subclinical illness", and "carrier birds". Again, lets look at the facts. If a bird is a carrier, then no vaccine will change that, and the bird will, in all likelyhood, remain healthy for life. And since adult birds almost always develop immunity, the rest of your flock is safe from the carrier.
The vaccine is claimed to be "95%" effective (a figure that is pulled out of thin air, by the way). So, why not vaccinate your birds on a yearly basis?
The Fact: Polyoma is entirely a disease of immature birds (nestlings; before they have grown out their feathers). Adult birds are completely resistant to the disease, and don't benefit from the vaccine. Self-protection, being nearly 100%, is far better than anything the vaccine can offer.
The Polyoma "epidemic" has come and gone entirely on its own. Improved sanitation and breeding techniques have produced healthier birds. These birds don't ever develop overt disease if exposed to Polyoma Virus. As an Epidemiologist by training, I can assure you that there have never been enough birds vaccinated for Polyoma virus to even slightly dent the incidence of Polyoma virus disease. The disease, like most diseases, is simply going away due to a bird's natural ability to develop self-immunity.
The rare case where an adult bird might develop this disease would be in a bird already immunologically compromised to the point that the vaccine would not alter the course of the disease. Even in aviaries, the vaccine is extremely questionable since very young birds (the most susceptible to the disease) can't respond to the vaccine. By the time these fledglings can respond to the vaccine, they likely can or have developed natural immunity! The window of opportunity that the vaccine might help is so small as to make it impractical in most aviaries.
In over 20 years of practice and far more years as a bird owner, I have never seen an adult bird develop Polyoma Virus. Any reasonable analysis would decide that the risk of adverse effects from the vaccine far outweigh any potential benefit.
Finally, lets look at the concept of yearly vaccination for Polyoma virus. Leaving aside the fact that the vaccine has no place in medicine (again, adult birds are completely resistant on their own to the disease), IF the vaccine was so effective, then after being given once, there would be no reason to continue to vaccinate a bird. Effective viral vaccines provide protection that lasts a lifetime.
- Pacheco Virus Vaccine
A second vaccine that is rarely used is the Pacheco Disease, also called Herpes Inclusion Body Hepatitis vaccine. Herpes viruses are known to be exceedingly difficult to vaccinate for. Genital herpes in people, for example, has proven completely resistant to the development of an effective vaccine. It is highly unlikely, therefore, that the Pacheco Virus vaccine provides any significant protection. This vaccine has shown a high rate of mortality immediately after the vaccine is given. We do not recommend its use.
- Pox Virus Vaccine
A final vaccine to consider is Pox Virus vaccine. While there is no Pox Virus vaccine available for parrot-type birds (hookbills), several species of birds do have Pox Virus vaccines available for use. In species for which there are vaccines available, the protection is poor following vaccination, but may be warranted in limited situations.
Vomiting and Regurgitation in Dogs and Cats
Dogs and cats commonly vomit and/or regurgitate food or stomach contents. Vomiting can be a normal and even healthy event for dogs and cats. Dogs will often eat things that do not agree with them. Cats might need to eliminate hair balls. The purging action of vomiting brings the body back to health. It will eliminate toxins in the stomach.
There is no cause for alarm if your dog or cat vomits once or twice a month. However, frequent episodes of vomiting or regurgitation is not normal. The animal the vomits regularly has a problem and should be treated.
Causes of vomiting animals:
- Foreign Bodies (hair balls, plastic, bones, dogs that eat anything they find)
- Poor digestion in the small intestine (this slows stomach emptying, the food that remains in the stomach too long becomes acidic the animal feels bloated)
- Gastric Ulcers
- Cancers (very uncommon)
- A side effect of many medications (pain relief drugs, such as Rimadyl, aspirin, predisone, cortisone, and many others)
- Lack of digestive enzymes
- Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD)
What to do?
Acute Vomiting
This is a common event in dogs and cats. It is not common in birds, unless it is behavioral or sexual regurgitation, and should be treated in birds as a serious condition. An avian veterinarian should be consulted.
Dogs and cats that are vomiting should be assessed at home: are they acting reasonably fine, even thought they are vomiting? If so, treat at home by following these guidelines.
- Feed a bland diet, consisting of 2/3 rice, sweet potato and oatmeal and 1/3 of the meal should be well cooked non-fatty meats. These include fish, chicken and buffalo.
- Feed only 1/2 of the normal amount of food at a time. Even better, feed several small meals until the vomiting has subsided.
- Support your animal with herbal products that soothe the stomach. One such herb is aloe vera. One of our favorite products is a Chinese combination herbal product called Calm Stomach
Monitor these milder cases, for several days. If your companion has not stopped vomiting after a 3-5 days, we are now dealing with chronic vomiting.
Chronic Vomiting
More serious cases, especially if the dog, cat or bird clearly does not feel well, need a routine exam and work-up that will include radiographs, blood tests, and maybe ultrasound. If you find an underlying disease, treat for that.
Western medicine traditionally uses products that stop the production of acid in the stomach (e.g.. Tagamet Pepcid. This is not a good idea in most cases, since the stomach acid is present to improve digestion. Lowering the stomach acid can lead to dysbiosis, bacterial infections, chronic ulceration, and candida (yeast) overgrowth. It is also common to use motility modifiers that pass the food through the stomach more rapidly than normal (e.g. Reglan). Before using these products, try using the rest of the ideas we have on this page for vomiting and diarrhea.
If the underlying cause can not be cured, (for example, stopping a dog from drinking contaminated water or eating indigestible foods), then we recommend that herbs and nutraceuticals be used to enhance digestion, heal the stomach and intestinal lining cells, and bring the body back into health.
What NOT to do:
- Don't feed blander and blander commercial diets, you are simply feeding food devoid of any true nutrition and not addressing the real problem
- Don't feed hypoallergenic diets. The vomiting is almost never due to allergies and these diets really work by being over-processed to the point that you are really feeding a soup based diet (put a piece of the dog food in water and watch it dissolve to nothing).
- Don't feed commercial diets, they are not as wholesome as home cooked foods.
Finally, a chronic vomiting animal is sick, and the the problem needs to be corrected, not masked using drugs that decrease acid production and increase stomach emptying (metoclopromide). If the therapies we suggest do not work and you live too far away to get to our clinic we recommend you call for a Phone Consult appointment.